I appreciate the kind offer. I was lucky enough to get a good price from a seller I have bought from in the past.
Also, in case anybody was interested, after listening the past 2 days, I think the Soviet 6P14P-EV tubes pair the best with the JAN GE 5751 tubes in the Quicksilver. My Sylvania 7189 tilted them too treble forward. The ei EL84 were a close 2nd, but still I felt the 6P14P-EV paired better (less width, but it really gave the 5751 the best linear sound with actual low and high end extentsion).
BUT, I did purchase a pair of Admiral branded 6BQ5/EL84 tubes. Admiral had GE, Mullard, and Raytheon all make tubes for them. I wasn’t sure about the pair I purchased as I could not see the date codes. But they did have the seams on the top of the tubes, which if true would indicate they are Mullard made. Only paid $60, so hopefully they check out (no experience with this seller).
In my experience, in a different application, those 5751 tubes were one of the best straight, no nonsense, clean of noise tubes. That seems like it would fit the Quicksilver well
FINALLY bought the Bifrost 2!!! For me a big deal budget wise. Received 2 days ago, doing some burn in, but mostly listening. We are getting to know each other yet, as it is very different from the E30 I’m used to! (but already Wow.) Paired with my Asgard 3, the recently purchased Nordost usb cable and, when I want to use it, the Loki mini +. Took a LONG time, but my Schiit stack is complete, lol.
A week or so ago I was RMAing Sony HT-A7000 soundbars because they kept showing up damaged, or so I thought. Update:
Just received my third A7000. No good. At volumes above 55-60%, any source (music, streaming movies, bluray) there is an audible air pressure sound from the woofer vents on either end.
What I mean by that is, when overall sound is low but bass is high (such as soundtracks with deep rumbling drums, deep rumbling engine sounds like tanks driving by), there is a sound like too much air is travelling through a space that is too narrow, creating a “BBBFF-F-F” airflow sound. I think what I’m hearing is an actual flaw in the design of this soundbar.
The sound is not present in a lot of content and so it can convince you the device is ok, and then you put on a movie like the new Dune and you hear it. I am quite disappointed and will be calling crutchfield to have them take it back and refund soon.
I think we will try the Nakamichi next. Sony has let us down. : /
The bass ports at either end are small and small, and the inside is a rounded tube that blocks any view of what is behind that. It’s got very tight tolerances and proprietary frame design, so I’ll probably leave it alone.
I’m recording videos of the device making the sound to send to the vendor, and hopefully I’ll solve it all soon. I may wind up back here in a couple weeks to share ANOTHER sound bar.
After some great advice in another thread, a Sparkos Labs ss3602 opamp to put in my Whammy. I needed an extension to fit it as well. There are no photos because I couldn’t wait long enough to try it out. It’s achieved everything I was hoping for. Much more clarity and detail in the top end without losing any bass extension. If anything there is more bass texture. I notice these qualities most during any isolated reverb and in very busy passages of music. Once again I am fascinated by how a single component can affect how an amplification section sounds.
My Admiral 6BQ5/EL84 tubes just arrived and I made an interesting discovery. The tube and date codes indicate rx4 42L2 63-18 and the tubes say Made in Holland on the top. This all indicates that these are Philips Miniwatt tubes manufactured in the Heerlen Plant in The Netherlands in 1963. I didn’t even know that Philips manufactured tubes for Admiral.
VERY cool! I have a few, but more budget models. Oddly enough the one I most often
reach for around the house is the first one I bought…an Ontario Rat 2 in D2, lol.
Your Reeves is, as we say in audio gear, a whole 'nother level. Congrats!
