Congrats, now make sure you keep it on for two weeks before fully evaluating it and never turn it off!
Congrats! Glad you snagged one. What did this replace? Dis you get it with Unison?
Now you just have to order the MIB cardā¦
Well, replaced both the 2541 and Wandla.
I got the unison just in case. Using AES from holo red.
That and the size are bothering me LOL.
If it sounds amazing it is staying, if not, getting a bf2/64.
Maybe take one for the team and order the MiB DAC cards for it? I know of a few people around here that would really appreciate a review of itā¦
Itās smaller than the previous chassis at least in height. You have become used to the Vioelectric footprint
Eventuallyā¦
Going to try the A1 first. So, far Im liking it.
Give it some time, they really do need some (brain?) burn in. Mine stays on 24/7, though the rare times I turn it off (gear changes, or power outage) it takes a lot less time to sound good again than when it was new.
The thing is a beast, itās true. I hesitate to say this, but mineās bigger!
OG case and allā¦
Someone on Headfi is looking to buy an A1/GS card. How much do those cards go for?
Just checked the MIB on schiit 964$ā¦
Well AFIK all the A1/GS cards are all used, and the reason Schiit had so many is from when the A2 card came out and people sent in their Yggy A1 to be upgraded. So probably hard to place a value. The LIM boards are $550 + tax n shipping so I imagine you could ask for like 200-250ish for the A1 board. But I donāt know the market or value to DIYers for the boards.
Asked him how much he was willing to pay. He said 200ish. Told him I would reach in 2 weeks. I donāt have enough time with the Yggy+ GS2
It will barely be warmed up by then lol, perhaps you might want to slow down enjoy what you have for a while. You got a hell of a deal and value with your purchase of the GS2. Youāll put all the value aside if you update to the MIB so quickly. Iād only consider that if I was truly not happy with the sound of the new DAC after giving it time to mechanically settle in and also brain adjustment.
Not that I am all that good at practining what I preachā¦
True!!
Is there a trick to cook it faster?
Put on the Steve Miller Bandās Fly Like and Eagle and set it to repeat at:
āTime keeps on slippinā, slippinā, slippinā
Into the futureā
Hey guys, some of the new cans i purchased are showing me things in my chain i did not realize before and i am hoping from some help from you guys so i can understand things and make adjustments.
I have an OOR + HYPSOS and my only DAC is the Gumby. I have started to notice the OOR is way too soft and relaxed and people pointed out that the Gumby is too relaxed for this amp pairing (I have an A2 Gumby).
I have just tried connecting my streamer via coax directly into a receiver (i am using that receiver to power the Tungstens), and with the same volume level and same cans, i noticed that the receiverās DAC sounds much more aggressive, with more bass presence and punch, though i thought it lacked some of the refinement i find in the Gumby, instrument separation / air mainly is where the Gumby wipes the floor with the receiver.
So, long story short, i prefer a more energetic sound with more bass punch and i am wondering if the Gumby may be holding back the OOR, what are your thoughts? Should i be using a different DAC for the OOR if i like a more energetic and punchy sound?
Iāve never had an Orr/Hypsos, so I canāt comment there. Although my understanding is you have some control over itās ālaidback-nessā by adjusting the Voltage on the Hypsos, but Iāll leave that to people whoāve owned them.
I wouldnāt really consider the Gumby laid back, I think the A2 was one of Schiitās āslamierā DACās though it does have a bit less sparkle/air than the Bifrost/Yggy.
Any of the ESS/AKM based DACās will be more aggressive, but the way I hear that itās mostly in the high frequencies and not in a good way on the cheaper ones.
What I donāt think youāll find is that the OOR will massively change in character with a different DAC.
I think your going to run into an issue finding a headphone amp that drives the Tungstenās as well as a speaker amp. itās design just puts it on the outside edge of reasonable in the headphone space.
IME with the OOR/Hypsos and DACs - I found that the OOR preferes a hotter input from the DAC aka 5v - 10v. For context the 2 DACs I had and used (OK 3) with the OOR/Hypsos were Schiit Yggy OG A2, Bifrost 2 and Holo Spring 3 KTE - All DACs were using balanced outputs the 2 Schiits both on paper rated 4v on the balanced outputs, the Holo 5.7v. I much prefeered the Holo DAC with the OOR/Hypsos than the Schiits and TBF I was really compariung the Yggy & Spring 3KTE and left each inline for over a month at a time not quick A/B.
But this is me with my preferences, my ears and my library and source (roon via ultraRendu) YMMV.
But I did feel some of what you described in lacking sound and energy with the DACs that had less output voltage. Keep in mind my small sample size of 2 for compares, but thatās how I put it down.
Iāve not heard Gumby but I dont think its becuase the Schiit DACs lack punch/energy I feel its down to voltage input into the OOR.
I still have the same Yggy in another setup and I think it does a grand job in that chain so it is not that I donāt like the Schiit DAC, its just that there was a better synergy for it elsewhere.
Edit FWIW
On the Hypsos I have played with voltages in the past but I always went back to and now leave it at the nominal default settings and med gain or 0dB on the knob. And the headphone I work off that setup is Susvara OG.
I was under the impression (from reading Head-Fi threads) that A1 Gumbys are warmer/more relaxed. I have an A2 and it strikes me as fairly neutral when comparing it to DACs Iāve had in the past. I can say it is decently punchy. I think itās dynamics are why Iāve kept it around for so long. That, along with the timbre and staging.
Saying that, I have recently began to get an itchā¦
Everyone keeps bringing up the Wandla for the OOR + HYPSOS stack, saying only then it will truly shine, maybe its because it outputs a higher voltage?
I am tempted to get one but the damn thing is just too expensive! I wonder if there is another alternative such as adding a pre-amp between the Gumby and the OOR?
I donāt have any expereince with either the Wandla DAC or using a preamp with the OOR in pre-amp mode.
Iāve been lucky or Iām simple, but Iāve really enjoyed the OOR so far with a pretty much out of the box setup with it. With the additions of power cord and and xlr cable upgrades. Iāve had my OOR since pretty early on in its release cycle.