General Headphone Help/Discussion Thread

I’m just curious but how do you guys disconnect/connect your headphones?

I’ve heard the safest way to do it is turn the vol all the way down to 0 (or mute) then plug in hps while unit is on.
Then there’s the other option where you connect hps first before powering on the unit.
I know some amps like the Phonitor don’t come with safety features like muting switches so which method is safest? Or are both dependent on how the unit was designed?

I should do a poll…

  • Before power-on
  • After power-on

0 voters

Pretty much this, all depends on the amp’s design. For tube amps I almost always make sure there’s a headphone (load) connected first before power on, and for solid state it matters a bit less but still typically connect before power on

3 Likes

Depends a bit what you want to protect, the point of plugging after power on is to avoid any loud pop the amp might make going into the headphones. But I’ve never heard a modern amp do that.
Plugging in after an amp if it’s a TRS connector can short the amp, in most cases with the volume down this is a none issue, but the phonitors have a bad rep for the short destroyIng the amp, and often the headphones as well.

2 Likes

For my last two amps before the Allnic, I had a Quicksilver, which I believe explicitly said to have something plugged in before turning it on, and the RNHP, which explicitly says to /not/ have something plugged in when you power it on/off. So I just do it however the amp wants me to do it, lol.

4 Likes

Fuck. I clicked wrong. After. Always after

Edit: as pointed out above, some tube amps need to always see a load or they melt down hut they are pretty rare in headphone land

1 Like

Realy? Litteraly every amp ive ever owned does it to some extent

This is common for Tube amps, though less common in the headphone space.
The load of the transducer is part of the circuit and without it, the amp can pull too much current through the tube and associated resistors.
The WA33, specifically says not to leave headphones disconnected for an extended period with the power on.
My Quicksilver M135 monoblocks blow a fuse instantly if the speakers aren’t connected.

2 Likes

I have almost always turned the rnhp on or off with headphones plugged in. Ooops. You do get a funky sound but i havent heard any loud pops.

Anything tube i make sure there is a load.

1 Like

Guitar amps are very susceptible to issues with load. If your cab isnt connected it can go catastrophic quick. But many have standby modes and designs to alleviate this.

1 Like

Yes I can imagine Guitar amps could be worse, if you look at a simple tube amp output stage, between b+ and Ground you have a transformer, a tube, a resistor (and maybe a bypass cap) so the overall impedance and therefore current in that path is heavily dependent on the load of the speaker reflected by the transformer into the path.
Without that load all you have is the resistance of the primary coils on the transformer, so you get a much larger current flowing which can easily damage anything in that path, or blow a fuse if your lucky.
My only tube guitar amp is an old Peavy Classic 50 (2x10), so no removable load.

Anyone here has heard the audeze lcd 3 pre fazor? is it good? There’s a seemingly cheap one in my town ($1000) in very good condition

It’s pretty solid, think a more forward and intense signature of a 2 pre fazor, but more technical overall. Personally I do find the tuning of the lcd 2 pf more pleasing, but I don’t really have qualms with the 3pf either. See if you can demo before you commit if possible if it’s local?

1 Like

TY, a more exagerated technical lcd2 sounds very appealing.

The seller is on an ebay like platform and failing to get my indirects (phone). I am trying to audition.

1 Like

And feedback on the differences between the Kennerton Magni vs the Gjallahorn or the LSA equivalents?

Thanks.

1 Like

This is the only direct comparison of all 3 GH50 variants I’ve seen.

3 Likes

Haven’t heard the Magni so I can’t comment on that but I can tell you that all 3 of the GH50 variants are a lot different from one another. The JM edition was my least favorite because I felt like it didn’t have some of the magic that the other two had. It was a more restrained and bass light sound. The HP-2 is an excellent headphone and probably the most “neutral” of the 3. It sounds very detailed and a little more forward than the GH50 OG. It also sounded somewhat more open to me. The OG is much more bass heavy than the others but still natural and detailed. It ended up being my favorite out of the lot and as such I ended up keeping it for my collection and I think it’s going to be there for a long time.

4 Likes

Sorry if its been covered before but has anyone taken an older LCD-X that had memory foam pads and put on the new non-mem foam pads?

Mine currently have the old vegan suede and I think those are better served on the 2pf or 24.

Anyone here has listened to both the eikon and the auteur?, I really do prefer open backs but im getting the sense the eikon might be a better value and comfort overall.

Bonus if someone can throw some lawton, denon or fostex into that comparison. maybe gh50 or others as well.

Im looking for crazy good dynamics and “finesse” all across the frequency spectrum to replace a clear mg. I have never had treble sensitivities except for beyer t90 and dt990 250 ohm on a bright amp.

I think the better question is what are you currently looking for in a headphone? Preferences, what dac and amp do you have, etc? Also, have you experienced a headphone that you absolutely disliked? Knowing all of that information would be helpful.

1 Like

Sub bass extension and great dynamics, the lcd x 2020 and Clear MG I had for a bit both had me completely satisfied in this regard.

I prefer open back headphones but if its worth it I wouldnt mind it being semi-closed.

I love female vocals, if they’re good its always a bonus. I also love forward midranges and treble, but as longs as they are not laid back its no problem

These will be used for electronic music mostly and pop, lo fi / trip hop secondarily, I dont mind v-shapes or different FRs but the ones i currenlt use have problems, wp900 has timbre and detail problems in the lower mids, and the emu teaks just feel unrefined in the treble region.

Hifiman ananda, its my worst enemy lol, I care a lot about dynamics (its worst quality) staging (also sucks)… And I dont care much about an even FR (which is its best quality, to harman fans at least).

SOURCES:

Dac: pro ject pre box s2 dac (transparent $500 dac)

Amps:
BHC+SB upgrade for high impedance
RNHP for high sensitivity
Burson funk allrounder (hasnt arrived, v6 version)