That’s a bit defensive, was only commenting on your use of the of “last piece” in your isotek post. It read as that was the last piece of your chain, and are settled or content with the addition.
I think you misunderstood the my comment
I’m at a loss as I never asked you anything remotely related to this statement. Brave of you to not be afraid to say something sucks, it is definitely not taboo or uncouth when called for it.
I’ve had this on my list since release, the Simgot EM10. I love the SuperMix 4 so much, purchasing this was inevitable. It is apparently a more detailed, more engaging SM4. I have so many damn meetings today, it’ll be a miracle if I get any ear time…
Finally integrating a sub to my speaker system. I asked some local people and this was the popular choice at least for my use case which is to have a real bottom octave extension for the Platimon. My other choice was Rythmic, but this SVS 3000 micro fit my room size more. Plus the Black Friday discount is pretty good. Imma try out 1 and see if I want another to dual sub it.
For a few years now i have known that my high level A/B switch has needed to be upgraded. I have needed a custom solid state switching mechanism of high quality build and design but procrastinated on having one commissioned due to cost constraints and indecision on a builder.
I finally settled on an excellent machinist / woodworker w/ some excellent electronics skills Midwinterdesignworks@gmail.com@oberon and based on his experience and my desires we came up w/ the pictured product.
This is a one of a kind, 3 way, A/B/C, (3 amplifier, 3 speaker) switch box with the addition of a dedicated set of taps to also accept high level subwoofer inputs that can be fed to the desired set of speakers now
There is a beautiful custom inlaid piece of Manzanita Burl wood, the black anodized aluminum case is a solid block, milled extra thick and heavy to provide weight and stability no matter what gauge or size speaker cables I decide to connect. 14 pair Cardas all copper binding posts, Dueland tin plated copper cable along w/ Cardas silver solder, and industrial grade switches were used. They don’t show well in the pictures but labels were milled above and below the knobs indicating 1,2,3, Amplifier and Speaker over and under each knob, while the binding posts in the rear are also each individually labeled. Lastly, the end all feature is 2 massive pure copper, custom milled knobs
There is just over 3 lbs of copper in the build and the whole piece weighs in close to 20 lbs
Thank you so very much @oberon , please chime in if i missed anything in the build. I’m so very pleased, the weakest link in my primary 2 channel system has finally been rectified and everything works perfectly
It was a fun build. It took a lot more time to find switches than I expected. I’ve only done signal and headphone switches before which are easy to come up with but the potential for relatively high current makes sourcing switches for speakers much harder. These are definitely over specced by a lot but it was pretty much that or under specced. These are utility grade which is a step up from industrial grade so they should last forever!
Although the Onix XM5 sounded pretty good, I couldn’t get on with it due to the very small touch screen. While navigating local files was fine, using Tidal was tricky, boardering on maddening.
Enter the R4. This has recently done the rounds across YouTube. The supposed Class A amp with it’s dynamic, spacious presentation appealed to me. And picking this one month old unit up off eBay for pennies appealed to me even more. I don’t mind the aesthetic either.
It won’t be something I use often, but it should serve me well on my annual plane journey to see the folks and the odd visit to the office.
O.K., this R4 does sound as good as advertised and this is a great combo. For reference, the IIWI review of the R4 rings true with my experience this morning. The EM10 is sometimes not engaging enough for me, but on the R4, engagement would be the first word that comes to mind!
So we’ve talked about the effect of power supply a few times in various threads but it is hard to do a direct comparison… except for with the Aune VIII dac.
I bought this a while back as a decent pc dac. The current one uses an Aune programmed FPGA instead of a dedicated dac chip. It is currently using a JRC 4580D opamp as I found this gave is more width and sound definition (I also have a bunch canibalised from a dead SPL Control One). It comes with a Mean Well SMPS power brick.
A dedicated external linear power supply. I’ve been A/Bing them and these are my observations.
Immediate difference to background noise. All noticeable EMI/RFI interference is gone from the signal up to about 90% of the amp volume. Above this a slight hiss but that could be from the amplifier itself as it is A/B.
Subjective observations: it feels like the sounds are a little better defined, treble has a a bit more bite and clarity while bass has a bit more roundness and size. Minor things but for me they made the same amount of difference as changing the opamp.
For me this dac is now slightly better than my Geshelli J2. It has better spacial definition and the linear power supply has given it a similar level of detail and clarity. It’s good enough to want to use it for music as well now and seems particularly good for electronic music when paired with my M3 amp.
Now I need to build a linear PSU for the Geshelli to see what happens.
All in all for 100 Euros this was an excellent buy and I would recommend it to anyone who owns one of these dacs.