It will depend on your room dimensions. So it would be best to experiment starting from 1ft then going up by one each time, until you’re not willing to raise it anymore lol… At least that’s what I would do if I had a 2ch system. But I was curious if anyone here has done it.
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I hang mine from the ceiling at kick drum height on a platform suspended by four elastomer cables.
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I’m not sure if actually elevating subwoofers is necessarily recommended for DOWNFIRING subwoofers and the REL models most of us have use a passive radiator mounted to the bottom 
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And if it is a concrete floor with carpet and has rubber feet ? Oh and opposite firing 6 inch subs out the sides
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Can we discuss HT subs here on this post as well?
Thinking about adding another sub to my HT setup. Currently have a 10" but I want more “chest punch”. I will most likely move the 10" to the rear as fill in duty. From what I’ve read, “chest punch” frequency is above 60hz?
Thinking about this one, price and features seems good - Speedwoofer 12S - RSL Speakers
Anyone have any experience with RSL?
12 vs 15 vs 18? Bigger better for HT?
Others I’m considering:
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https://emotiva.com/collections/subwoofers/products/airmotiv-xs15-subwoofer
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DIY route - Roundover MBMs v2.1 18" & 21" Flat Packs – GSG Audio Design (would need to get my own 18" sub and amplifier. Plenty of resources out there for this DIY.)
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haven’t checked on this thread in a while. always nice to see my threads get some love 
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3 feet!! 
Now I am curious how this changes the dispersion of the subwoofer, my limited understanding was it used the floor to control the sound wave given its non-directional (downward firing).
Unfortunately my sub is tiny and not sure what I have on hand to lift it 3’ off the ground besides a desk.
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KEF does a dual firing series of subwoofers, one is obviously designed for the Meta Speakers, while the other larger variant is more traditional in ascetics.
Anyone have any background on these two?
What AVR are you using for HT?
I’m currently using a Marantz AVR. It has 2 sub outs.
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It’s likely more to do with size of the room first, than adding a second sub or placement second. When I set my HT crossover, it’s usually a bit less than 60hz, trending towards 80-120hz, and that is with manually changing the system to see small speakers rather than large speakers. That’s why I was asking which AVR you are using, Marantz make a crap ton of models and not all are equal as I’m sure you are well aware. Not all have the same auto-setup system either. What does your model use for auto-set up? This is where the AVR used comes into play, for the finer tweaking of the sub, it’s not as simple as a sub out coonection to a massive sub-woofer. There’s got to be a fine balance, would suggest looking at buying one or those SPL meter tools too, that way you can double check the measurements, and also get an idea of what db the overall system is playing at to get the chest pound. Likely the volume would have to be quite high.
Is there a specific movie scene you are thinking of when you’re describing the chest pound bass? It clearly won’t be present during the whole movie, so figure this is what the real ask is.
Please correct me if I’m wrong?
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Sorry, I should have given more details.
The HT is setup in the basement (concrete floor w/ rug). The HT is in the 12’10”x17” area. The whole basement is about 20x23.
Marantz NR1607 is the AVR. Emotiva T1 for left and right and Emotica C2 for center. Rears are Dayton Audio B652-air. The sub is a budget 10”, Dayton Sub-1000 (maybe this plays into my thinking why I need a second/better sub). I used Audyssey to setup the speakers and sub. I did set the front and center to small. LCR are crossed at 80hz, rears at 120hz and the sub (LFE) is set to 120hz.
Just now while looking at the menu on the avr, I saw that Audyssey set the sub level to -5 db. I changed it over to -3.5db. I’ll test it out for a few days. Maybe that’s enough to not want to add another sub. 
The system does sound good for what it is, but I just want that extra oomph on the mid-bass regions. I don’t really want the lower sub hz. That’s why this DIY GSG intrigues me… read - Frequently Asked Questions – GSG Audio Design but at the same time, if getting a better sub will help I’m all for that too.
" What is an MBM?
MBM is short for “mid-bass module” though we like to think of it more as “music bass module” because GSG MBM’s are tuned to cover most all of the bass that is commonly found in music, even elecronic music such as EDM and dubstep. GSG MBMs are tuned to 27Hz and provide extension into the low 20’s in most rooms (as compared with the Marty Sub home theater subs which are tuned from 16-20Hz and provide extension into the teens)."
" BRIEF TECHNICAL EXAMPLE OF THE MBM
The following charts highlight the differences between a MBM loaded with a pro-audio driver (in this case a PA-460) and a Full Marty loaded with a big excursion driver (in this case a UM-18).
The first chart shows the frequency response (with no EQ) of both systems with an arbitrary 500 watts of power. What can clearly be seen is for the same amount of “nominal power”, the MBM produces significantly more output in the upper bass. 70Hz is roughly the frequency where folks report “kick-in-the-chest” bass.
Frequency response at 500 watts, PA-460 (red line), UM-18 (black line):"
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@ericg if your budget can handle the cost I absolutely have had great results using the mono price Monolith model subwoofers.
Also FYI they have a solid 5 year warranty if you keep the box and foam to return it in case of failure. They WILL replace it, as a matter of fact I’m currently waiting on a replacement and other than actually moving the 200lb beast the rest of the process was easy, straightforward and stress free. They are a great company to deal with and reasonably priced compared to some of the other big names
Good luck on what you decide.
The dual 12” model is a brute their 15’s hit like thunder.
I use a pair of 12’s in my 14X14 ft room and they kick ass
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I decided I’m going to try the DIY route. If I cut the plywood myself, I’ll be able to build (2) 18" subwoofers for roughly the cost of (1) 12" monolith. Should be a fun project whenever I decide to start.
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Don’t even go that route, there are some very good flat pack precut kits out there.
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Yes, GSG Audio has awesome flatpacks.
However, there’s this subwoofer called V.B.S.S. (Value Buster Subwoofer System - MTG Designs - VBSS). The person who created it shared the cut list and it seems doable. I want to create the slot port version.
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Nice, decades ago i built many subwoofer enclosures and we had a blast w/ them. Yes they were for cars, but still… Hardest hitting enclosure we ever did was a Transmission Line design w/ a folded 8’ long slot that held 4 x 18’s in the extended cab of i think a Mazda pick-up truck…hehe we cracked the windshield and sheared bolts on the engine block after a few weeks, totally destroyed that poor little pick-up in just a matter of months but damned if it didn’t slam. We hit about 146db using that set-up. 
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Browsing through the DIY build forum and found a picture next to a similar HT speakers I have… these thing looks massive… LOL.
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You making this for 2 channel or HT? Just curious 
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DIY subs for HT use. Still loving the sound from the Zu’s w/o any subs.
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Going to a rel distributor today to demo a used pair of s510 they have for sale. It’s a pair of their demo models which I can get for around $3k for the pair.
Anybody have any experience with model of rels?