They basically perform 2 functions, they act as dampers, but I’d guess the reason they are there in the LTA is just to secure the tubes in case of a shock,
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Looking to hear what it did to the sound. That’s the location where it’s going to make the most impact. I was very happy after removing a pair of generic Sylvania 12AU7 and replacing them with a pair of Matsushita. Accordiong to what you posted that section should have the least impact but it certainly was a transformation. So your changing the pre tubes should be very interesting.
You’re right. It’s just additional protection to survive shipping since the board it mounted vertically and perhaps given the decreased support of the board would lead to too many failures during shipping otherwise. Just changing the tubes you see how much play it has.
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Any thoughts on using the speaker tabs on the MZ2? I have no experience with using speaker tabs - apart from being able to damage your 'phones, would it even make sense to drive stuff like the HE-6(se), HEDD, etc. on them?
It wont push the HE6, Sus, etc. It’s still one watt as far as I know. When I had the mz3 I didn’t use speakers with it, but it’s a solid pre.
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Yeah, I had a feeling that would be the case. I’m gonna focus on dynamics with this chain for now and maybe go for harder to drive HPs later with a different amp.
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That would definitely be my plan. Could always get a nice ss for hard to drive planars and use it/LTA as a pre.
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No real value in doing that with MZ2, it’s the same circuit and it’s low powered so for the headphones you’re likely going to use, the regular output works as intended.
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I have had the opportunity to spend time with the MZ3 for the last week, been running it as a pre-amp mostly and using my double fisted Utopia for headphone listening.
I’m having a hard time understanding what the draw is on the MZ3. I know some of you have owned it or spent ample time to offer it as recommendation for a headphone kit, yet it’s been utterly boring and underwhelming for me.
The innards are quite beautiful along with the exterior design, I can appreciate the engineering that went into creating this black box.
I did a bit of tube rolling with 12SX7 GT and 12SN7GTA, still have to try the 6SN7 and will likely only do that for pre-amp over headlamp duties.
I will say it has a damn silent background!
It is dead silent, which tells me it’s well engineered. I wish it had a pulse to go along with it!
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I’m giving the MZ3 another shot tonight with headphones, anyone have any recommendations on tube rolling? Got some Brimar 12aut7 and RCA 12SX-GT7 currently in there. Have other output tubes to use including 6SN7 and 12SN7 type.
The RCA 12SX was pretty good and fared well even compared to top of the line Melz 6SN7.
I rolled both 12AU7 and 12AT7s and by a wide margin preferred the latter.
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Thanks, made a mistake with the Brimar, they are 12at7. I will go with this roll tonight 
Best I heard this amp was with a pair of '58 7062 philips heerlen pinched waist D getters and a pair of '52 6SN7 Sylvania bottom getter 3 hole Bad Boys
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I definitely don’t have those on hand 
Wait, I have Sylvania 6SN7 pairs. Let me see if they have the holes.
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It looks kinda half-assed if you compare it to the mz2 and 3 lol (looks-wise that is)
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Haha yeah but cheaper tho
I would take it down a notch to quarter-assed, where is the Fern & Roby design influence? This looks like a slightly nice Whammy chassis box.
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Personally I’m all for ditching the fern & roby case if it sounds better and is cheaper, would prefer they put more money into the sound rather than build (looks closer to the original more utilitarian berning products anyways lol). I’d just wonder where it would end up stacking up against the mz3, hard to tell if this is more positioned in-between the 2 and 3 or meant to be above the 3
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Is there an error on the preorder when selecting the LPS+ supply? It’s marking the same 2100$ price.
or it’s a preorder bonus?
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