General questions for all things related to power between the wall and your gear
I currently own a PS Audio PowerPlant 3 and although Iām very happy with it, Iām looking for something with more outlets, so that I cam plug my new JCAT USB card and powered monitors and sub into the same conditioner/regenerator.
I was thinking about getting a PowerPlant 15 since theyāre on sale, but then saw a used Equi Core and Deep Core for sale at half price so I got that instead. I talked to the owner of Underwood Hifi, which manufactures the Equi Core stuff, and he said that I could plug both the Equi Core and PowerPlant 3 into the Deep Core, as long as I didnāt exceed 1800W, essentially giving me 12 outlets with the same ground.
Iāll be interested to see if I can tell any difference between the Equi Core conditioner vs the Power Plant regenerator. If I like one over the other, then Iāll use the āwinnerā for the Yggy, Nautilus, Burson Soloist, PI2AES and JCAT and the āloserā for the powered monitors. And if the PP 3 is the winner, then Iāll pursue a bigger PS Audio in the future.
5 Likes
I think I saw that same set of Equi/Deep=Core and considered briefly trying to snag it. I need to finish upgrading my DAC, though, before I start messing with power much. I also use a Pi2AES, and I canāt speak to the JCAT but it was a noticeably significant improvement right off the bat moving from USB out of a laptop. I think Iāll likely end up with a mid range PS Audio eventually, though.
1 Like
I agree, I like the Pi2AES a lot too, but I also have a lot of music still on my PC and I was curious to see if the JCAT card would improve the USB connection at all.
And that turned into a āIāve never used a linear power supply, I should get one of those for the JCATā. And that turned into a āMy PP3 doesnāt have enough outlets, I should buy a PP15ā.
And then the very small common sense part of my brain kicked in and reminded me that in the space of 2 months over the winter, one of my wifeās cats needed an operation to have an eye removed, the other cat needed a blood transfusion (apparently she loves her cats as much as I love audio) and then my sewer pipe cracked under the street, all totaling $20K of unexpected expenditure.
So instead of buying a new PP15, I decided to sensibly try out the used Equi/Deep Core stuff first, since after all, this all started because I just needed more outlets to plug the LPS into.
7 Likes
Definitely interested in the Core Power products. I heard about them first from Justin at Ampsandsound and his YouTube videos where he did a brief overview on some of their products. I donāt understand why the Deep Core and Equi Core are different products though, seems like it would make more sense to combine them into the same box but maybe Iām misunderstanding the use case. Underwood HiFi currently has some sale prices going for them so definitely seems like a good buy.
I was also considering the PP15 but am having a hard time justifying the sale cost. Iām planning on ordering a Puritan Audio PSM156 instead at the end of this month. Those go for 2300 usd in America but can be had for cheaper if youāre based in the UK where they are made. Will update with some thoughts on that once I order and it gets here.
3 Likes
I know they are conditioners vs regenerators, but how do some of the Audioquest Niagara 3000 level and up conditioners compare to things like the P3/P5/P12 in effectiveness without killing dynamics and such like some conditioners? I seem to have just missed a P5 priced at under $2k yesterday on TMR and theyāre recommending the AQ stuff.
1 Like
Interestingly, the guy Iāve been chatting with over email from TMR says from his experience, things like the Niagara 3000 offer better performance with blacker background and improved dynamics over most of the PSA offerings. He mentions that at the hifi shop he owned, that the PSA stuff was some of the most frequently returned, and that while it used to be true that conditioners largely squashed dynamics and stage more than regens, that it is not the case with more of the newer gear.
So Iām somewhat conflicted now between something like a Powerplant P5 vs the Niagara 3000 and would love an alternative perspective if anyoneās got experience with a range of options at that level.
3 Likes
So a couple questions on that, 1. if this was in the past was this older ps audio gear? Because if so I can see that, Iāve only really liked the most recent ps regens enough to invest in them for my own system. 2. is this in a context of a headphone or speaker setup since I do think thatās a factor to consider?
But yes some of the more recent conditioners are a lot better than I remember them being, although Iāve not really done a test with a more modern higher end conditioner vs a ps regen in my own setup
1 Like
Fairā¦he didnāt say how long ago, so it very well could have been the older stuff
It did actually seem maybe like it was more in the context of 2 channel. Some of the gear he was mentioning in high end setups he worked on were MBL, YG Acoustics, and Boulder
He also spoke highly of the Shunyata Everest and Audience in general, but price tags are probably a bit out of range atm.
2 Likes
Iād add the Deep Core and Equi Core line of conditioners from Underwood HiFi to your list as a value proposition.
I was previously using a PowerPlant 3, which I really liked, and wanted to try some other value options before going to something like a PowerPlant 12 or 15, so I bought a used Deep Core 1800 and Equi Core 1000 last week. I havenāt A-Bād yet, but I certainly didnāt notice any drop off when I plugged my headphone setup into the Equi Core. I plan on using it for a few weeks and then switching back to the PowerPlant to see if I notice a difference.
If you do end up choosing PS Audio, I recommend trying their trade in process, because they offer MSRP, no matter how old the item, up to a limit, so you can probably get a new regenerator for close to the cost of used if you have any old electronics gathering dust. I sent them a 20 year old receiver and got $750 (the PP3 trade in limit) for it when buying a PowerPlant 3 - I would have gotten more if Iād have bought one of their higher end units.
5 Likes
Been meaning to document this for the community. Whether or not it helps the sound, I donāt know and I donāt care. But, Iāve done all I could to make sure that those damned electrons can have the easiest path from point A to point B. 
The project was to replace the electrical outlets in my office/listening room where I have audio equipment connected. Iāve gone with hospital grade heavy duty receptacles with an isolated ground. They weight twice as much as the outlets Iām replacing and the metal surfaces are twice as thick. Iām fortunate that there is one circuit dedicated to the room, the next best thing to a dedicated line, four outlets in a room thatās 9ā x 12ā.
Typical outlet of the ones Iāve replaced.
Plastic cover removed, more on this later.
Screws removed to take the outlet off.
Pull the outlet out from the box.
The hospital grade receptacle Iām replacing it with.
Side shot of the receptacle. Notice the ājumperā tab that connects the top and bottom receptacle. I will have to remove this as this particular outlet is connected to a lamp switch so there are two separate circuits at place with this one. Not a common thing.
screws removed to break that tab off, disconnecting the top and bottom portion of the receptacle, allowing for the two separate circuits.
The side for the light switch circuit.
The side for the power circuit. Notice the split now that the tab has been removed.
Taped up the receptacle. Safety first.
Mount the receptacle back into the box.
Used one of these insulating foam pieces. They work, I had a big draft coming from the hole and with the foam in place the draft is completely gone. Going green.
To finish it off, I replaced the plastic AC outlet cover with a stainless steel one. For what its worth theyāre supposed to help with RFI and EMF discharge from the outlet box and for a couple of dollars each, well worth the price to replace it. Also looks pretty bad ass if you ask me. Thereās also the aspect of plugging and unplugging. It now takes effort, like two handed effort to pull the plug out, so maximum contact for those electrons!
Couple of final notes, I used Deoxit on all of the cables giving them a good cleaning with a brass wire brush and then applying a bit of Deoxit. Lastly, and forgive me for stating the obvious, but yes, make SURE that the power has been turned off before working on any AC electrical circuit.
11 Likes
Really interesting mini project, thanks for sharing it. I do like the aesthetic as well!
I notice you have a hollow core plaster boarded wall. Have you thought of embedding a power filtered multi plug in the wall? 
I have a Richard Gray Power Company 1200C Iām using. Otherwise, those are a good option when they can be fit.
1 Like
Puritan 156 just arrived. This is the 6 outlet version and I ordered it with the upgraded power cable, the classic plus seen with the copper sleeving. Will be replacing my Furman Elite 15 PFi. Here are some pics, too early for impressions but the build is nice.
Bit of a mix of power cables at the moment. Wall to puritan is classic + (copper sleeving). Puritan to Flux Volot is the standard classic cable (black sleeving). Then I have 2 audio envy 3p cables one going to the Bricasti MC1 and the other going to the XIAudio Powerman.
10 Likes
Hello,
My power strip broke a few days ago.
It was a Taga Harmony Pf 1000 old version.
It still works, but the on/off switch can no longer be switched off.
The bar stays permanently on although it should be switched off.
I also noticed a slight burning smell when I noticed this.
Now Iām looking for a new bar, Iāll see if I can send in the old one and if itās worth it, Iāll use it in the stereo system in the future.
Currently I have a standard bar, and also immediately noticed the difference that something is missing.
Can you recommend something in the Eu up to about 400$.
I thought about the Audioquest Powerquest 3, and read about it.
Itās a 50/50 rating most of the time.
I have also seen the measurement on Asr but I donāt think much of it.
I need a minimum of 6 slots, 8 would be better so I donāt have to crawl under the desk every time.
A switch to turn it on and off would also be nice because of the power consumption and there are days when I do nothing.
These are important things for me in terms of use.
Everything else would of course be nice to have, also in terms of sound.
1 Like
I have the AQ PowerQuest 3, used it on the 2-channel untill it broke. It has filtering with sockets for amp and digital source and such. Sounds good but in reality it limits the socket use. It was also a bit buggy, had to unplug all cables and follow a sequence to get power after I used the on/off switch. Iām guessing the unit was faulty from start, returned it and got a new one. Using it on my desk setup now.
If youāre interested, hereās one on sale: Audioquest Powerquest 3 8-voudig stekkerblok | HOBO hifi
Although it was replaced, I wanted something else so I also started looking around. Something you might want to think about is if you want a filtered power bar or not, a lot of them have some filtering and that is not always a good thing. The bars from Supra and Wireworld have a bad rep on that end so I avoided them. When you look around it seems difficult to find a power bar for a reasonable price and on the lower end the AQ seem to hit a sweet spot, on paper at least. I also looked at the Furutech bars but they are pretty expensive so I though about building my own. Audiophonics has everything to almost replicate the (unfiltered) furutech bars but when I was looking they had issues sourcing the aluminium cases due to covid so I looked elsewhere. In the end I decided on the Ifi Audio PowerStation, price has gone up since but I thought it offered some nice features like the polarity and earth indicators and a nice thick aluminium casing. If you check audiophonics, they also have bars from dynavox and lucid that seem to resemble your Taga bar, no experience with those though.
Maybe also worth adding that I also have very good experience with APC power bars. When my AQ died I first replaced it with a bar that I had lying around. Immediately dynamics were killed and it sounded flat and dull. I then replaced it with a power bar from APC and everything was restored, I even had the impression it was more dynamic than with the powerQuest 3 powerbar. These are not audio bars but decent German engineering with some HF filtering for electric noise. I opted for the Ifi Powerbar because of the aluminium casing and the extra isolation that provides, otherwise Iām not sure I would spend on an AQ powerquest or any other power bar with non-aluminium casing in the <500 pricepoint.
Sound quality wise there was little difference between the ifi and the APC or even the AQ, guess that might depend on the quality of your power grid, where I live that is pretty decent. Where there is a difference is the amount of RFI noise they emit, I had to put my sensor really in the socket to get a measurement on the ifi bar so thatās well isolated. On the Audioquest or the APC I just had to put my sensor nearby (10 cm range) and it was already registering RFI coming from the power bars. Personally, after this experience, between the AQ PowerQuest bars or an APC bar, I would choose the regular APC bar. In my opinion, there is not much (if anything) that the AQ adds for the extra money except maybe some mental satisfaction you bought an āaudiophileā power bar.
Links to APC:
Good luck with the hunt
5 Likes
Hello,
oh wow thank you very much for the detailed answer.
It helps a lot.
There are also these:
It costs 180ā¬ approx.
I had the previous version without the VU meter.
The one I have is no longer available in this form.
I have written to the support, letās see what they say.
Of course, I now have a bit of hope that I might get one of the newer versions or whether they might simply repair my broken one.
I didnāt look for it because itās a lot cheaper than the Powerquest 3.
On the other hand, I thought Iād give the Powerquest a chance since I ordered it.
But I would also send it back if I had to.
I was actually satisfied with the Taga, which is clearly the winner compared to the Baumarkt strip.
Yesterday I noticed directly that it is less clear and very spongy and scratchy in the sound.
I read that the powerquest supposedly needs a burn in.
I thought I would leave it connected to the mains for 2-3 days before using it to see if it is better/equal/worse than the Taga.
The bar has been itching me for a while and since itās time, Iāll give it a try.
The Apc doesnāt look bad either, thanks for the tip.
It would be ideal for the stereo system in the living room, also worth a try.
I have read a lot about Furman, which is supposed to be really good for the money, also here in the forum.
Unfortunately itās a bit tricky to find in Europe and sometimes itās not available.
I have also noticed that such bars lose some of their dynamic range because of the filtering, which was also the case with the Taga, but not by much.
I found that with the Singxer Su 2, a lot has been added again.
I have no explanation for this.
I have also read that transformers are better for cleaning the current without losing the dynamics.
The Rowen company from Switzerland is said to be famous for this.
https://www.rowen.ch/en/data/rowen_pt2000.php
They are available as Eu and also as Us version for 1100$ I think.
A bit much but really good, Iāve only read good things about them.
Iād buy one on better days.
Unfortunately I canāt build something like that myself, I donāt have the knowledge. 
Their Ify Powerbar also looks very good.
Have heared a lot of positive things about it.
2 Likes
Hello,
The Powerquest 3 arrived today and the shipping was really fast.
I thought about the best way to test it.
I read a lot of reports and a lot of them were a bit ambivalent where I got a stomach ache.
So I thought I would do a small test in 1-2 sections.
Part 1 would involve unpacking and plugging it in and then switching it on and listening to what I notice in the first hour.
After that I would leave the bar on standby as well as the devices for the weekend.
And the Powerquest competes with my old bar that I still have in my memory.
Part 2 after the weekend, listen in again and listen for further changes.
The preparation is a bit tedious but okay.
I cleaned the contacts of the plugs with alcohol before plugging them in, let them evaporate and plug them in.
Note:
The first hour after unpacking, I wasnāt sure which was better.
Just leave the bar in standby for a quiet burn-in or switch on the devices one after the other so that the current flows to the consumer first.
I preferred to just switch everything on so that the current flowed through completely at least once.
Part 1 :
Iāll spare you the unpacking and so on at this point, as well as the technical data.
You can read about them.
All in all, it makes a good impression when you hold it in your hand, the cable is unfortunately permanently installed. So cable rolling is not possible.
The on/off switch is crisp and full.
On many websites it shows the picture of the Powerquest 3 in the US version.
Since I live in the EU, I naturally received the Eu version from the dealer.
Unfortunately, I find it stupid that the indicator lights are not next to the on/off switch.
Unfortunately they are opposite, so you have to decide what you prefer.
The comfortable grip to the rear and the indicator lights in view or vice versa.
The sound of the bar is better than that of the standard bar from the electronics store.
Nothing scratches, or distorts, or sounds muddy.
The same was true of the Taga.
It put the DIY bar straight into the drawer.
With the Powerquest 3, I donāt hear anything of what was reported.
Nothing is muddy there either, or the bass is tight.
My impression is that it has a bit more air in the room to breathe and thus creates more peace.
The placement also seems a bit tidier, there were a few places where I thought for a moment that I hadnāt noticed anything from the instruments before. (I put it under placebo effect).
My other first impression is that itās a bit softer, probably because itās softer itās a bit at the expense of dynamics. (correct me if Iām wrong)
Bass is rich and not thin. If he plays low you can tell he is trying.
(You notice a little that the bar is not quite there yet).
Separations are a little better than with the Taga Harmony.
I donāt really dare to say about the mids and trebles yet.
Keystrokes from the piano that go up into the upper treble range are rich.
Attacks also seem authentic.
As a first impression, it makes a good impression.
The Taga Harmony was a bit livelier, brighter and more focussed I would say, spontaneously I also have to say that it obscured certain areas a bit but not much.
(I was a bit surprised about the placebo effect).
In the bass Iād say Taga is a bit more accurate,midrange treble was okay throughout.it didnāt add much Iād say.I mean in the resolution it was quite good and a bit closer to the stage.
All in all, the Powerquest 3 has a lot of subtle qualities that shine through.
I have to get used to the fact that something is different.
The effect is not enormous, but certain parts are obvious that itās a little different.
But you canāt say itās enormously bad or good.
Everything is much more on the subtle side.
From experience I also know that the Audioquest things always have to go through a certain number of hours before they are complete.
This was the case with the NRG Z, RCA cinnamon and forrest cable as well as the cinnamon coax cable.
4 Likes
Hello,
a small interim update on Powerquest 3:
Friday when I received it it was quite sobering to my ears.
Saturday morning I had some time and was a bit disappointed, and had partly committed myself and thought Oh dear what have you ordered.
(Also the ASR rating was going through my head,bad boy )
Because it sounded strange on the the stereosystem too.
Saturday I didnāt have much time and turned most things off but the Powerquest remained in standby. (So the power switch was on)
As it was getting quite late, I didnāt feel like listening to music any more.
Today is Sunday and the āsilent burn inā has done a good 50 hours since it was connected to the power supply.
Now that Iām well rested, I thought Iād take a listen.
The tube amplifier needs more than 15 minutes to warm up.
In the meantime, I listen to My Daily Discovery on Tidal with the Singxer Dac.
And I immediately noticed that something had changed.
On the Auteur headphones, it always sounded a bit wadded up and less concise.
Strangely enough, thatās gone.
The Dac benefits a bit and seems to do something with the power supply.
On the Euforia there is sometimes also a hum with various tubes.
By chance I have had some where this is a bit off but never disturbing in the playback. It is only when nothing is running.
Even then the hum has gone down by 50%.
On the Euforia, too, everything seems to come back gradually.
Before, everything was a bit boring, less dynamic, restrained and somewhat imprecise.
After 50 hours, everything went in a completely different direction.
The bass is firmer again, vocals are more lively and emotional and less distant and boring.
The sun seems to rise a little more in the treble range (could be imagination).
Separations seem to be a bit tidier and are more obvious, also micro details come through a bit better I think.
Dynamism is also coming back, thank God, I was worried about that.
Thatās all I can say for now.
On a personal note, Iām willing to leave the Powerquest on standby for another 50 hours. (So another 2 days, maybe even another day to be sure).
If it had stayed like it was on Friday after unpacking, I would have packed it up again and sent it back.
What bothers me a bit is that there is not much info about the bar.
Audioquest is a bit coy about how it works and what it does, which is a shame.
It is also a pity that there is no phase indicator.
It occurred to me later that this might be the reason why it sounds very restrained, but I was too lazy to phase everything out so far.
I didnāt do anything to the system myself or change anything apart from trying to replace 2 cables that were in the system anyway.
Also to check whether cable rolling has any influence.
What I have added is that the network cable is also connected to the bar.
Unfortunately, there is no information there either as to whether a FIlterung is possibly taking place.
The fact that the bar also needs time is also not mentioned anywhere in the manual.
If I hadnāt bought audio quest cables in the past, the bar would have ended up in the packaging.
Strangely enough, all cables opened after at least 50 hours, but they were better after 100 hours at the latest.
7 Likes
Hello,
Letās move on to the second part of the Powerquest 3 test.
As already described, I have left the system untouched.
This means that the tubes in the Feliks Euforia before the defect of the Taga Harmony bar remained unchanged. Also just to keep a line.
The only thing I did was to swap the power cables after 50 hours that remained in the system.
The Isotek initium from the hybrid amplifier went to the Euforia, and the Audiophonics cable to the hybrid amplifier.
I did this because the impressions from part 1 worried me.
And it was supposed to be a test, so I can say something else about it that is subejctive.
I had the Powerquest 3 with me for a week now and have been able to get to know it better.
Thereās not much to say about its operation except that you hear a kind of click when you switch it on and off.
It sounds like a relay has been installed inside that contributes to the smooth switch-on voltage.
I think thatās a positive thing.
As a tip I can say that you should avoid leaving the devices switched on if they have a button, when the bar is switched off and it is switched on.
It happened to me on the amplifier and it was irritating at first, and the process usually takes longer until everything is on standby.
It is better to switch on the bar and switch on everything gradually.
I have placed the Powerquest so that I can reach the switch and the lamp on the opposite side is projected onto the wall.
You have to know that there are 2 lamps, one green and one yellow.
So if at any time a yellow one comes on, something is wrong.
I tried one of the 4 USB ports for charging the smartphone and it works without any problems.
I think it takes a little longer to charge, but it charges the battery a little slower. for me, thatās okay, maybe it saves the battery through intelligent charging.
The LAN ports, unfortunately I have not found any information on whether they are galvanically isolated, but this also works stably and without interruptions to the Internet.
I assume that something also happens there, which probably dampens the noise somewhat.
Overall, the Powerquest stays cool both when itās on and when you leave it on, with one area being slightly warmer than the rest of the case.
Burn in:
As suspected, it needs a burn in. At first it sounded solid but there were a few areas that were very undefined and strange to the ear.
You can hear some improvements right away but itās not as clear.
Itās enough to leave the Powerquest 3 plugged in with the switch in the on position and wait 4 days.
I listened to it for 1-2 hours after 50 hours and found most of it was definitely fixed and better than out of the box.
After 100 hours it was finally tuned in and it was only minimally better than the 50 hours before.
Itās definitely a huge jump from unboxing it and plugging it in at 100h plus.
A burn in of at least 50 h is definitely necessary.
After 100 hours I didnāt hear any changes.
Two sentences about the bad āASRā test:
I have seen it and also read it. The test doesnāt say whether it was carried out or whether the bar was already in use.
It doesnāt say anything more than that itās new, and from what Iāve heard, Iād agree with the test so far right out of the box without running a burn in.
Could the readings occur like this and be correct.
After burn in I would say if you were to measure it again it would go down significantly.
Why?
Soundwise everything I heard in the Taga Harmony is there. Apart from that, certain areas have definitely improved after the burn in.
Sound:
If I prefer the Taga, the overall sound was a little broader, but many areas are there, but not quite as defined as with the Powerquest 3.
Areas such as details and macrodynamics are also important.
These are only slightly present on the Taga and are emphasised a little better on the Powerquest 3.
I also found that the keystrokes on the piano came through better with the Powerquest 3.
In general, the secondary instruments are better represented than before and play more rafined.
Compared to the Taga, I also found that with the Powerquest 3 it completely removed the veil that was subjectively there before.
The details came through better and more obviously, the background also seems a bit darker, more relaxed and mellow. Vocals also seem a bit calmer and more convivial as well as a bit more intimate.
I found the treble range interesting, I think the Taga distorted at a certain point, which I donāt notice with the Powerquest 3.
Everything is a bit smoother and better emphasised and absolutely quiet.
I am still undecided about the bass range, both have their advantages.
The Tage I think rumbles a bit more, the Powerquest 3 plays a bit deeper down, more defined and rounder (a matter of taste in my opinion).
There were a few pieces where I thought the bass was totally brilliant with the Powerquest 3 and felt it was right.
I am also undecided about the dynamics, the Taga is probably a little better, perhaps more open than the Powerquest 3, but kept to a minimum.
The costs of the dynamics are low where you lose out.
You get used to it relatively quickly, also because the Powerquest 3 offers a bit more overall, the whole thing doesnāt carry that much weight. and you make the compromise.
compromise.
Letās talk briefly about colouring:
Itās really difficult. The Powerquest 3 is definitely darker than the Taga, but I canāt say itās warmer or colder. I didnāt find it so.
I donāt know if you can talk about colouration, but I found the whole production on the Powerquest 3 just better.
Better and more authentic,a bit more musical on the side.
The Powerquest 3 just subtly dissects it out more but in a positive sense,without adding anything.If it does then I honestly donāt notice it.
Advantages:
The Taga sounded a bit packed on the Singxer Dac with the Auteur headphones.
With the Powerquest 3 there was none of that, the sound was more open and lively and closer to the production, so the Dac definitely benefits from that.
On the Feliks Euforia, my tubes hum a bit when there is no music playing.
It was still there after the Euforia was connected to the Powerquest 3 but not as much as with the Taga. So something definitely seems to be happening there too.
I would not say that the Powerquest 3 is a blend product.
Gentle charging of Usb-operated devices is certainly an advantage, even if itās nothing new.
Whether the usb-ports also benefit from the intelligent circuitry for devices that need to be usb powered I canāt say in terms of power smoothing.
The same with the Lan ports, it would be a nice to know as well as a nice to have, if it should be like that.
Price and features:
For what it offers, itās good. itās not a drawback and worth the price for the entry level as well as mid fi.
What bothers me a bit are the 4K monitor connections, which would not have been absolutely necessary for me.
I didnāt notice any changes on the monitor that improved the picture.
I would have preferred 2 optimised slots.
Also, more information about the connections and what they do in terms of customer information would be a great advantage.
A note that the strip needs a minimum of 50 hours would also be customer-friendly.
A phase indicator would also be a nice to have on board, just to be sure, or to have information about whether the Powerquest 3 regulates itself.
The arrangement of the USB ports and the access to them as well as to the power switch could have been better in my opinion.
At the age of 40, Iām not going to crawl under the desk every time I plug in the USB cable, to be honest.
I prefer to go to the socket at body height. 
Personal conclusion:
The Powerquest 3 darkens a bit in terms of sound colouration, I think, I couldnāt hear anything else that was obvious.
The price for this is a touch of intimacy in the vocals, the production is much more on stage than if I were sitting in a jazz club with my whisky and listening to the music and relax.
The details and instruments flow smoothly without being annoying.
I also think it has taken away a bit of the forward focus of the Auteurs headphones, which makes it seem a bit more relaxed overall (could be my imagination).
Similar to the Lcd 2, this allows me to listen to music for much longer before my ears get tired.
In the stereo system this is even more obvious, the Denon ne800 is also like the Feliks Euforia quite neutral in its tuning.
And I found it very pleasant to listen to in both systems.
In terms of bass, I donāt think it should have suffered, but it could have had a bit more rumble and bite for my taste.
Which caused me to be satisfied with it.
In some tracks I found the bass with the taga bar a bit smeared which was more indicative of the recording that there was something there.With the Powerquest 3 this seems to be gone and not to occur when I listened the track and did not occur when I listened to the track again.
So I would say and also against ASR that the Powerquest 3 is not a phoney and does something.
Of course itās also subtle in impression and a fine tuning of its own system.
I would probably not necessarily use the Powerquest 3 in an already dark system, but rather in a neutral or colder system so that the effect is better.
In a neutral system, so that certain distortions donāt go beyond the peak, which is quite common. The Powerquest 3 surprisingly doses this extremely well and refines it even more.
And in a cold system I would say it will be a little warmer, more accurate and the staging will be better I would argue.
Finally, on a personal note:
I cannot guarantee that it will eliminate certain hum loops and can only refer to the Feliks Euforia amplifier as far as certain tubes are concerned hum.
Hum alone can also have other causes, such as a corroded socket or even painted over with wall paint. The contacts behind the socket can also be corroded.
(I had this myself once)
Of course, there are also residential areas where the power grid is not particularly well equipped.
In my system I have connected the Powerquest as well as the taga Harmony to a Furutech wall socket with gold contacts.
And the rest of the cables to the devices are Emi and Rf protected.I have not done or connected anything else.
The most expensive cable is the Audioquest NRG Z which is plugged into the Dac I have.
6 Likes