Hey guys, i am trying to deal with a Brazilian electrical installation in my new home, things here are not ideal when it comes to, well anything…
Anyways, i have a 1440VA nobreak + a Panamax power conditioner and i connect my entire chain to that, but i heard that i MUST use a “senoidal nobreak” for this setup, apparently the regular nobreaks have a “square wave” and that can damage my gear, is this info accurate?
Also, since i hava a Panamax power conditioner after the nobreak, wouldn’t that power conditioner take care of that problem?
I need some help understanding this, don’t want to damage my gear by using the wrong nobreak…
A good high level video as to why you shouldn’t do what you’re trying to do. Yes it’s a valid concern. You can buy double conversion UPS that will give you a smooth not squared off AC sine wave. A power conditioner downstream wouldn’t take care of the problem but a regenerator would.
I guess the main question is are you looking for power backup or simply something to clean the power coming in. The answer to that would best determine what you should buy.
Your average UPS will only give you minutes of “backup”, if you do go this route, you will want one with Sinusoidal output, and you’ll want it to be decent sinusoidal output, FWIW all the not insanely priced ones are just pass though until the power goes out.
FWIW I have a whole house generator, that automatically switches on when the power goes out, so my UPS only has to last 11 seconds, and I still don’t use it, I just switch everything off at the point I lose power. My computer gear is plugged into it.
I guess you could put the UPS before the filter/regenerator, but every audio specific filter/regenerator I’ve ever seen specifically says not to do that. Although it’s mostly about quality rather than it hurting anything.
Crap… I am kind of out of options here then, i will not spend a lot of money on nobreaks, i would rather buy another set of cans, lol.
I guess i will just use the power conditioner without a nobreak, it should protect the gear against surges and i will use my Qudelix when the power is out
Seems like basicaly everyone here runs power plants. Any other good complete regenerator options to keep an eye out for? I think the.niagra series is also good enough to use for amps but not positive and wasn’t sure if there was anything else to add to my hifi shark watch list
Fwiw, I asked a similar question way back when and the only actual regenerator from what came up is from ps audio and little dot. All others would be conditioners or isolation transformers. I’ve been rec’ed stuff from torus power before but I have no experience
I have both a Power Plant 3 and a Deep Core 1800 /Equi Core 1000 and have compared my ampsandsound Nautilus on both.
To be honest, I couldn’t tell any difference! So why do I recommend the Core Power equipment? It can handle more power and doesn’t shut down every time I have a brownout (which happens to my PP3 all the time).
I can have the PP3 and the Equicore plugged into the Deep Core 1800, as long as I don’t exceed 1800 watts. If I hadn’t already owned the PP3, I probably would have gone with a Equi Core 1800, which can handle 1800W by itself, compared to the 1000W of my Equi Core 1000.
I was actually going to suggest this to @orrman when I saw him talk about the fact that he can’t have both his amps turned on at the same time.
The downside is that it’s a crappy website, and difficult to figure out the pricing, and the only way to order something is to call them direct. But Wally, the owner, always seems to have a sale on, and will somehow find a way to undercut his published prices on the website, so it all feels like buying a used car.
Similar story for me. I also have a Puritan PSM 156 conditioner that I bought before the power plant mainly because it doesn’t have a lower power output like the PP3 does and the MSRP is about the same around 2500 usd. I can’t tell a difference either in sound but there’s definitely differences in usability.
The PP3 runs warm with just a dac connected and gets hot if I connect my dac and WA33. The Puritan doesn’t heat up at all. The Puritan is smaller and lighter. They both have enough outlets for my uses. The PP3 has lights on it while the Puritan does not. They are both about 1U in height but the Puritan is about half as deep. The main benefit to the Puritan is not having to worry about how much gear I have turned on connected to it. Like I’m listening to WA33 this morning and wanted to compare a bit to Folkvanger which is also on the PP3 at the moment. But I’m concerned if I turn on the Folkvanger too it will push too close to the PP3 limits.
Even if you reach over its limits it will give you about 30min to handle it. The PP3 can do 500-900w for that time if needed. You’ll see the red light and know to turn off some of your gear.
The reason I like the Core Power conditioner over the PS Audio is that I don’t have to worry about red lights. The Core Power can handle up to 1800W.
For instance, I’m spending all of today testing the ZMF Caldera across 4 amps (MZ3, Pass HPA-1, Burson Soloist 3XP and Nautilus) without worrying about turning amps off as I switch from one amp to the other.
So, I recently got a pair of Raidho D1 engineered by a seemingly genius guy. I am also trying pretty hard to avoid the Kool-Aid of Ansuz and their other gear because it is ridiculously expensive.
On the other hand, I am inching myself away from the PS Audio stuff and was able to pick up an Ansuz Mainz8 X entry level power distributor. It was about 65% off and want to see if my setup reacts better to this versus regenerating.
