This is my current setup, left channel. I guess it’s more of a “table top” setup, heh. Current speaker is 15 3/8" x 8 x 8. The Harbeth is 20.4" x 10.7 x 12. Bit bigger!
I just got a couple of IsoAcoustics Aperta desktop stands for my (hopefully soon to be delivered) Omega speakers. I thought I’d try them under my Emotiva powered monitors while I’m waiting for the Omegas, and they’re a perfect fit.
The Emotivas were previously sitting on foam monitor pads, and after replacing the foam with the Apertas, the bass tightened up nicely. I did try the Apertas sitting on top of the foam too (wondering if 2 layers of isolation would double up the benefits) but it sounded brighter/harsher than before.
Those IsoAcoustics are awesome for the price, I’ve got them under my Dynaudios Lyd5 I use in my 2.1 channel for the TV. The Aperta is metal right?
Wondering if anyone has an elegant solution to sending two amp signals to the same pair of speakers? I was looking at something like the switcher from ONE Little Bear but don’t want to negatively impact the rest of my chain just for the convenience.
I’m also hitting the same issue at the front end where I have both a digital signal and analogue signal from my turntable. I’m currently just routing through my Rogue Sphinx v3 but not sure if that’s becoming a bottleneck. I think that will likely be a pre-amp move, maybe something like MZ3 to have 2 outputs and volume control (need it for the Aleph 3) and a separate phono. If someone has a good suggestion for this too, it would be appreciated
It may be the best case where I do swap wiring around when I want to listen to different amps to preserve the sound quality and upgrade somewhere else…looking at you front end
Chain: Pi4 via USB 3.0 > Mojo Mystique EVO Pro 21 OR Vinyl >> Sphinx v3 > Aleph 3 OR Zen Triode 25th > Zu Audio DWII
This might be a dumb noob question but why not connect both amps to the speakers in parallel?
EDIT don’t. Lol
Assuming you mean have them both connected at the same time? Like one via banana plugs and the other spade? I guess I didn’t think of that since I pretty much use banana plugs for all my speaker connections lol. Is there a negative to having them connected at the same time like that?
I also use a resistor to drop the 16ohm to about 8ohm where I would put a spade or bare wire but I don’t think that matters too much
So if you want a speaker switch box, you’ll need to take into consideration that given you’re using a tube amp, you’d want to have load resistors on one of the taps to make sure the tube amp always sees a load just in case. You could omit this I guess but you’d have to ensure that before powering on the tube amp that the switch is switched to the tube amp to ensure it’s connected to the speaker
For options with load resistors, I’d look at a mapletree sp-1
For no load options I’d look at something like a pine tree audio spsx-2, proco rms-1a, there’s a couple other ones that I’m forgetting
This is a sure fire way to blow an amp.
Why so?
I am no EE, someone with this background could better explain what could happen, all I know is based on reading how it’s a bad idea and using a selector box, especially one which can present a dummy load is the solution.
If you have both amps on then one amp will power the other amp’s speaker leads. One moment of forgetfulness, not something you’d want to try.
@zachzach, I have been using a dual amp dual speaker switch box for years. I don’t have a picture of the make and model but have also been thinking of having one made for me custom by Mapletree audio but have not taken the time to do so.
To answer your first question can it degrade the sound quality to some point?
Maybe and possibly, probably yes. I am firm believer that every change you make. Either power, sources, cable, components all affect performance in one way or another. Some to your pleasure some not. If varying a speaker cable makes and audible change you can discern then likely adding 2 cables and a connection between them will possibly also make a small possibly audible difference in sound character. Good or bad will eventually be your call.
I have safely used a switch box for years. I don’t want to “JINX” myself now but yes, you can use one using best safety practices and NOT have any issues. Stupid and forgetful things happen and then it will cost you much money in shipping and repairs, but that is a chance you take daily simply powering things up. Have a mental or written checklist always for each step of power up and down and do not deviate in order to best protect yourself.
You have nice equipment. Don’t skimp out now. Email the Canadians at Mapletree audio. Give them specifics and spend as much and a tiny bit more than your wallet allows and have a high quality custom switch box made for your situation and be done with it. Purchase the exact cables of same make and materials to minimize variations and try it. Worst case scenario you put the box for sale for someone less picky afterwards
Good luck
You can probably get away without it for the lower powered amps.
However the Quicksilver Manual for his Mono’s states
Never operate your amplifers with the speakers disconnected.
If it’s like my M135’s Mike is not kidding around when he states that, mine will blow a fuse as soon as you turn them on if speakers are not connected, and if that didn’t happen in all likely hood they fry something a lot more expensive, most likely a cathode resistor or for maximum cost the transformer.
I posted something similar when talking about the RCA and XLR switch boxes that Mapletree made for me. Wonderful people to work with. They make good products that have been carefully thought through, and go above and beyond with their customer service. For instance, they asked what color wood I wanted on my switches, so I sent them a couple of photos of my ZMF Verite and Pendant, and they sent me photos of different slabs that they thought would blend in well.
Really appreciate everyone’s feedback!
Looks like this would be a good foolproof option and @PaisleyUnderground had great feedback for their service which is a huge bonus!
I’ll reach out to them and report back once I get things situated and leave some thoughts on the product
Since I’m going to be out of work for a bit I have some extra time on my hands for some projects but not a ton of money. I’d like to try my hand at “vinatge” audio from say the 60’s-80’s. I’m wondering if there are some holy grails to watch for of speakers in this area. Not a fan or horns nor do I have room for the giant Klipsch boxes. Anything else I’m game for… I can put it nearfield (desktop), midfield (8ft spare bedroom), or large living room. I’d open to towers or bookies.
Any suggestion would be helpful so I could go do a bit of research on the OG 2 channel forums (audiokarma /etc…).
I am very new to the speaker game, but I found this information when I was looking into more old Sony Products
Sony was pioneers in this space in the 80s and 90s. Legendary items with exquisite appearance and powerful specs.
Sony released a “R” Series. It was not only the greatest headphone of all time, “The Sony MDR R10” it was a combination of greatest in everything.
Greatest Speakers, Greatest Amplifiers, Greatest DACs, Greatest Pre-amps and Greatest CD-Players.
The legendary “R” series
Sony TA ER1 - Pre-amp and amp for the R10 headphone and R series speakers
Sony CDP-R1/DAS-R1 CD player - This CD-player and DAC went hand in hand with the headphone and speakers.
The Legendary Sony SS-R10
These are Sony’s electrostatic SS-R10 loudspeaker!! Yes, you heard it electrostatic loudspeakers made with the same team around the R10 CD-players, headphones and DACs!!!
Sony SS-R10 - Legendary R speakers made alongside with the R10 headphones/CD-players and Amplifiers
Sony CDP-R10 - This is theeeeee CD-player of all time! The Ultra RARE R-10 CD-player
Sony SS-GR1 - R-10 lound speakers
Legendary Sony TA-NR10
power amps to power their speakers.
Sony televisions as well. Talk about a fall from the top.
Consider possibly looking at some of the DIY open baffle designs, very straightforward and massive dollar to performance ratio. Just an idea and thought