A good preamp when you’re ready. For now just plug and unplug stuff every couple of weeks as this way you’ll really get the feel for when you switch.
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connect the Wandla to this and then Oor, Quicksilver and v281 to it. Then connect the Cambridge to v281 to keep the synergy you like.
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Thanks for the ideas!
Looking for recommendations for brands or specific models to research for amplification (integrated or pre/power combos):
- around $5K used pricing
- more neutrally tuned
- doesn’t matter if tube or solid state
- Over 20-25wpc into 8ohm
- Bonus points for decent phono input but that’s absolutely a bonus and not a requirement.
What do people like here that fits the above?
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ZOTL Ultralinear integrated is neutrally tuned and might fit all your requirements.
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Allnic amp is pretty neutral. There is integrated amp around $5K right now. But if you are looking to sell it back to the used market, it might be slow compare to other products since Allnic amps ain’t really popular.
Used, in your price category well known brands w/ plenty of reviews for you to reference for your specific needs see below. (Just a sample off the top of my head to get you looking 
As far as more esoteric brand names go, especially European makers, the list goes on and is so diverse. 
)
Mark Levinson, Naim, Pass Labs, Krell, Vinnie Rossi, Classe, Constellation, Hegal, Jeff, Rowland, LTA, SPL, Odyssey, Modwright.
Happy hunting and happy listening always.
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Roughly how big of a volume delta is a DAC that outputs 2V vs 1.6V? Assuming you’re using the same amp and headphones.
2v is pretty standard for consumer gear, and many “boutique” DACs run significantly hotter from what I’ve seen (3.6v on Holo).
I’ve played around with the Qutest (you can set the output 1,2, or 3v) and I found that 2v was best overall as 3v was too ‘hot’. Meaning it not only increased perceived dynamics but also made things a touch shouty. With the Qutest I feel 2.5v would’ve been the sweet spot.
Essentially dynamics and loudness are where I found the audible differences. I’m guessing that’s why many boutique DACs run their single ended outputs hot, so as to increase the perceived dynamics, IMO.
(The above impressions where made with the LTA MZ3 which is a considerably transparent amp)
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-1.94 db
Pretty small.
You can put that into context by considering the fact that many decibel level comparison charts are by increments of 10 db.
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Hey guys, i have a Pi2AES which has been acting up for a long time, i now have to reboot it twice daily. I have tried changing power sources and a bunch of other things but i am just done with it.
Would you please recommend another budget streamer i can get instead of it? A small upgrade would be good but i am not really looking for a real upgrade, just a stable experience with a similar sound quality for Roon.
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Have you tried re-installing the software on the SD card. That often helps
Yep i tried everything, i don’t want to deal with it anymore 
There’s the iFi ZEN Stream, that seems like a decent alternative but it costs $399 so a bit more and only has USB and RCA SPDIF for outputs (though you could pair it with a USB DDC to solve that problem). One upside though is it has an exclusive Roon mode that you switch to on the back so you don’t have to deal with it in software. It’s probably easier to deal with in general compared to anything RPI/off-the-shelf SBC based.
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This looks like a very good option, i wonder how its sound compare to the Pi…
I used a regular RPI4 with RoPieee powered by a good power supply and connected to a DDC for a long time before changing solutions. I thought that solution sounded great, and once set up I never had to reboot it or anything. But maybe I just had good luck haha. Let us know whatever you end up with, I’d be curious to know what you think of the ZEN stream if you get it.
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Yep i am really happy with the Pi’s sound really, its a shame i will have to change it but lets see how it goes!
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I’ve used a iFi Zen Stream for quite a few years now and like it overall. I mainly use Tidal Connect, and it works 95% of the time without issue. Every once in a while, there’s a connection issue, and I have to restart the Zen Stream to get it reconnected. It’s likely a WiFi issue on my end most of the time if I had to guess.
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The Pi2AES is a rock solid little engine that could. If you’re having problems, there’s clearly something up with it.
That said, there are some VERY good streamers out there that if you give them a good power supply, get even better. If you like the sound of the Pi2AES though, IMO you’re going to have to spend a decent amount to get something equal or better.
Holo Red, a Lumin U1 Mini something along the $800 to $1000 price range but given that you’re in Mexico from what I recall, getting gear may be a little bit more challenging for you.
Honestly I’d tell you to not give up on the Pi and try to resolve it.
What problems are you having with it? Does a reboot help and for how long? What are the running temps? what power supply are you using?
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So I’ve been messing with a Mercury v3 Streamer for a bit. So far everything’s nice!
BUT
My issue is the use case.
Every time I listen to music, I’m on my computer doing something. Whether that is discovering new music, learning something, gaming, doing some A/B/X stuff, mixes, whatever.
The way it stands now, I can’t input through USB and digital/SPDIF at the same time. It has to be either or…and 9.99999/10 I’m listening through USB.
Doing some digging in the DDC thread, Ideon Reclockers seem to be more up my alley since im on the PC all the time.
Now here’s where the indecisiveness comes in.
Lampizator is willing to upgrade me to the Amber 5 internally, which would entail, as they say, a completely reworked digital engine as well as upgraded USB module.
So i have 3 options:
- Keep using the streamer, and change my approach to how i listen to music.
- Buy a USB reclocker.
- Upgrade to the Amber 5 (Rob tells me it’ll sound like the Amber 5 after the Upgrades)
#1 being the cheapest but least practical
#2 being the most expensive in the realm of $2k-4k+
#3 would be $3k and sending it to Poland.
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