Go for it, the userbase will expand when we figure out how to do it without killing the site.
The intent of the site wasn’t really to be just high end.
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So, you must like it a fair bit to write about it.
I have an LD MKIII that I will be adding to the sale pile tomorrow. I always wanted to try a big, sloppy OTL and I am glad that I did. But it is not something that I see as a long term member of the family. And you?
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Ill make a little dot thread, deeleh also likes them a lot
Yes I love that amp, for some pairings like my 6xx and alessandro MS2i I enjoy it just as much as my RNHP, obviously without the technical performance but it sounds a lot sweeter with those.
I part with it tomorrow as its already been sold, I kinda regret it but need space in my desk to fit the BHC.
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Hear hear!! Plenty of good gear that costs less!
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Ok, so I think this answers my next question as well then, but let me ask just to confirm. If I find an amp that stages how I want, is there a solid chance I can I roll it into the mid range lushness I want (a bit of sweetness but certainly not wet) without changing the staging characteristics too greatly?
That fair. TBH Im not much of a tweaker myself (when it comes to within a piece of gear such as tube rolling or filter/switches on IEMs). I just kinda want to understand what exactly the limitations and possibilities of rolling really are. Like I assume it can change technicalities a fair bit but I wasnt sure if voicing could change massively as well (like A&S are generaly fairly intimate from what I understand, so I didnt know if different tubes could give them a grander presentation)
Short version is it depends, there is a tendency to overstate changes from tweaks like swapping tubes, they generally do not change the character of an amp.
Having said that, the Haggerman tuba is a much better amp once you throw away the stock tubes. The DNA amps change significantly when you roll the rectifiers.
It all depends, tubes only have a sound in a circuit, the specifics of that circuit dictate how much change you’ll get.
Generally getting away from the cheaper new production stuff, you’ll tend to end up cleaner sounding with some improvement in resolution, possibly a marginal increase in stage, depending on the tube you might get richer midrange or Bass.
The effects on a P/P amp like the WA22/WA33 ought to be less, because the harmonics added are cancelled out for the most part, so your change is really around exactly how the tube amplifies given the load line the designer picked.
Single ended designs can vary a bit more.
Rectifiers can make a significant difference in some designs, they can change the overall presentation more than driver tubes in some cases, it’s unclear to me why that is if you are swapping to a variant of the same tube, but it is the case. If you swap to a different type of rectifier, there is a good chance you change the actual B+ voltage, and as a result the load line of the amplifier, which could introduce, or fix none linearities.
The issue with rolling in more upscale amps is cost, good 2A3’s START at $500 a pair, and 300B’s are more expensive than that.
EL34/KT88’s generally aren’t as expensive, but still get up there if you want quality NOS tubes.
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tyvm for the great breakdown. as for the cost of rolling, tbh, I dont mind that part if I can get good tube advice. Mostly my question was asked to that when I hear amps at canjam next week I know more of what is changable and what is not. If the limits of changing are a bit of resolution, texture, and maybe a bit of lushness that makes picking an amp much easier IMO as I can just focus on stage and go from there.
Hello,
In order not to fall down the rabbit hole unnecessarily.
My tip is this.
Find out which types of tubes the amplifier supports.
And read the reviews about where you think they might be right for you.
If it’s the right amplifier, all the better, it will save you a lot of money.
Of course, better is always better and is subjective.
You can buy Nos tubes for $800 like Woo Audio offers and not like it.
And go for a 50-60$ tube and it’s magic for you.
So the more you find about the tube the better.
Don’t hesitate to ask dealers who can sometimes give you good information about it.
That’s what I did at the beginning of the year when I was new.
And don’t buy a tube amp where there are too few or no tubes left.
Because the price is exhorbitantly high, and you often spend a lot of money on used tubes that are more likely to die.
When you have found your tube, always look around for a few bargains.
There are also fair and honest people on Ebay and the like.
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oh yah. I have a lot of reading to do before I buy something. Im just going to be at canjam and have a chance to try a number of fairly cool tube amps so I want to know what is and isnt changeable with tubes. For example I think I want a less intimate sound in general, so a mogwai may be out (though I did enjoy the fuck out of that amp I dont think it fits my work listening music preferences crazy well tbh, more of a great second amp). Before this thread I wasnt sure if mogwai would be made to be huge with tubes alone and a huge amp could lose that staging if I tried to give it a bit more mid body or something like that tbh
You can definitely find a tube amp that has a lot of body and thickness, but still have a lot of presentation, staging, and imaging. That’s for sure.
I figured it was at least possible, but I feel like there are subsets within that, that I just don’t even know exist yet. Honestly, I think my main goal is to get an idea of what all is out there far more so than decide on what I’m buying.
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Hmm, okay doesn’t look wrong.
Hurts a bit in terms of price.
Have you ever thought about trying something from the custom range?
For example, I’m having one built that combines both my requirements and the opinion of the builder that it is possible and makes sense.
The price is far below what the Mogwai costs.
It’s an unusual way, but sometimes it’s the right way if it’s supposed to meet the requirements.
I haven’t got mine yet, but I don’t think it will be long before I do.
It’s also nice to be able to contribute something yourself.
At the moment, I have the impression that manufacturers are building an Otl because they got hold of a good quantity of Nos tubes, which makes it worthwhile.
Or a possible new tube that is still in the development stage.
This information is sometimes only sparse.
That’s why a custom build sometimes makes more sense, because you can say you’d like to have an amp that is KT-xx or 300b tube capable.
The number of connections etc. and the rest is left to the builder.
You profit most when tubes are already proven and established, especially with those that are fresh on the market.
Like the Sophia Electric, Ps Vane, Gold Lion and at the same time still help themselves to the Nos market.
Just to give you food for thought, not that I doubt the manufacturers’ amplifiers from the construction point of view, but often there is something in them that you don’t like because of the savings made in order to make a profit.
My builder was very honest, I told him about the tubes and sent him the 6SN7 Linlai tubes and he examined and tested them.
He said that instead of using one tube as a hybrid amplifier, it would be better to use two sockets with a better transformer to better exploit the potential.
The surcharge was then relatively minimal, no more than $80.
So you’d rather do that and have peace of mind when everything fits in the end and be a bit proud that you were allowed to contribute to it yourself.
Works relatively well if you already know your needs and the builder knows how to implement them.
And you are also flexible in that respect.
Otherwise, if you’re already at Canjam, I’d take a look at Cayin if you’re there.
They don’t have the usual material either.
The Dap and the Ha6 also look promising.
Anyone can recommend a good rca splitter box? I want to turn 1 stereo rca output (from my pre+dac) into 2 stereo rca outputs in order to connect 2 amps, as simple as possible.
The “best” options I found are minidsp 2x4 HD and schiit saga+ but they really overcomplicate what I want to do.
Are you looking for a splitter or a switch, for the former I’d just buy a cable, for the latter any of the ones on Amazon will be fine, unless you’re extremely high end.
I will warn you if you want a splitter, not all amps will play well when they share inputs with another amp. Most do, but some will inject noise either while off or on.
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I’ll second what Polygon said and add a brand recommendation. I and others have used the Nobsound Little Bear splitters happily
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Yes an actual splitter, its to compare headphone amp pairings. I read the cheap amazon ones could induce noise so im hesitating.
Is this the one?
Even if it adds noise for comparison purposes it shouldnt be bad right?
I used this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7P7366/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F05H1YB65NW9VZ11TCDA
But you want RCA, so I think this is the RCA version?
Nobsound Passive Stereo 4(1)-IN-1(4)-OUT RCA Single Audio Splitter/Switcher Selector DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RD939K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5X39S0TAXQXJQE5F1PAY
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Everything adds noise, but if your looking to A/B and I will warn against that sort of evaluation, a decent quality passive switch is going to add about the least.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089FX2NRR
The only thing you’ll find audible is crosstalk if you run the amp on one channel and listen to the other.
I have a Niles one which is a bit higher quality, but they aren’t made any more, I’ve also used a passive pre for 2 in 1 out an old Creek OBH-12, I also have a passive pre with a relay based volume control I made. They all work, and I couldn’t tell you which one is in the circuit by listening.
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Thanks ill look into them, a preamplifier would be the best option but for now those simple solutions should do
This is a good switch box. Have had no problems with. I usually only power up one device at a time to avoid cross talk completely.
Can be found on Amazon
TC-7240 4-Way RCA / Phono Line Amp Router Audio Switcher Selector Splitter
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