I also think they only applied to those who were first owners from a dealer but I could be wrong there, and yes likely over anyways
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This is what I have been told by owners of upgraded OGs as well. Given How anti-resale abyss is publicly I would assume its true.
ok, so pretty simple progression over all it seems. Any idea at all roughly what tier an OG would be expected to fall in? Would it be more like d8kp or diana V2 interms of resolution? Also, I assume no big changes in terms of synergy across the generations?
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Below
Uhhhh just generally more demanding with each iteration
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oh wow. Wasn’t expecting it to have come that far, but I guess it has almost been 10 years now.
I wasn’t really impressed with the first 1266 when I had tried it, only started to catch my attention with the phi, they really got their shit together after that
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Good to know. TBH Ill probably just pass then. Given how close that is to pricing out a phi or CC I think id rather just sell my gear and add money if I decide to go that way
That’s basically the thing, you can get a phi for really not that much more, so it just makes sense to go with the phi or higher instead over an og
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Oh, I just bought a pair of resale diana v2s… why are they so anti-resale? Obviously they don’t get the money from a brand new pair, but if I like these enough once I have a bit more money I could potentially buy things from them direct (or something)
Okay been listening to these for like an hour now and they sound good… but when I move my head, I can hear a crinkling paper sound in the right side of the headphone. If I tap on the housing on the left side, it sounds normal. If I tap the housing on the right side, it sounds like a film-plasticy noise moving around in there. Is this like the driver being messed up or loose? Literally have never heard something like this before. This is the first time I’ve ever experienced something like this buying used, would yall send these back? Really thinking about it cause they were not cheap 
Also one of the pair of pads it came with are literally coming apart from the magnet where the glue is fading over time, which is another not so good sign.
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That is driver crinkle and is actually quite common, my pair of v2 had a bit in the right driver when I had them. It’s just something that happens with open back planars, I’ve also experienced it on several other planars including hifiman and audeze so it’s not something exclusive to abyss. Its up to you decide if its something you can live with, some cases of crinkle can be worse than others and it’s not something that is guaranteed not to happen even brand new headphones straight from the manufacturer can still exhibit this. I won’t try to explain why this happens as that would be best discussed by someone who knows more about it but I know it’s related to seal and air pressure so you should be able to lessen the effects of it by rotating pads and getting them to seal less which is kinda what you want anyways for the Diana.
As far as the pads yeah that can happen with the abyss pads, especially if they are a few years old and or they have been taken off incorrectly which puts undue stress on the glue. Very easy to fix though, if it’s really bad go ahead and peel them off the ring and reapply some glue even super glue should work and they should be good as new. Alternatively just buy new pads.
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They havent ever said for sure (all they do if go “well we are a known factor the PO isnt” which doesnt explain why they dont have transferable warrenty…), but this would be my guess as to why. I mean, it does make a ton of sense on a gut check level of “why not sell new and get the money myself?”. Then again my 3 or so experiences with Joe have never been particularly good so this may just be me projecting some bias onto the reason.
This is (annoyingly) common with a great number of higher tension planars (believe sus commonly have the issue as well). Ive heard it has to do with the driver relaxing as it warms up slightly but I dont know if thats true or not. @Towa is also right that this happened far more commonly in one channel than the other most of the time too. Luckily Ive never noticed any different in SQ between the two channels at all dispite that only one did this.
lol. Welcome to abyss. Where the pads feel like they were made in an utterly different factory than the rest of the (genuinly very well put together) can. This pealing is extremely common to the point were a while back DMS had something pinned in his discord abot how to reglue them. When mine were doing the same on arrival I reached out to a few other owners I knew at the time and they all had the exact same issue as well. You can general stick the glue back down if you take the pad off and mess with them but a few tips:
- Never leave the cans sitting on the table like you would for other cans. Because the pads are bigger than the frames this can promote the separation.
- when removing pads to swap/rotate make sure to try and get a singer nail between the backing plate of the pad and the HP so you arent pulling on the (shitty) glue.
Lastly, if you want another example of a shocking oversite vs the build quality of the physical cans themselves, check to see if the right and left side of your stock cable are the same length 
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Thank you both for the insight, it makes me feel a bit better. I do still have a bit of a sour taste in my mouth though because the seller said “excellent condition” and made no mention of the pad separating or driver crinkle.
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Fwiw, I probabaly wouldn’t mention driver crinkle in one of my ads either (its more common than not in my experience), but the pad seperation 1000% should have been brought up
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A note on the crinkle, you shouldn’t be getting too much with the v2 because of how abyss only partially seal, if you have a fair amount of crinkle check and make sure the headphones aren’t making a full seal on your head, if they are consider rotating the pads (although perhaps don’t do that until you get them sorted out with the glue and whatnot, that is pretty irritating the seller didn’t mention them, try and see if you can message the guy and ask for some money back because of it)
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Are grado cup and driver mods worth it compared to buying used grados in terms of price-performance?
I recently became interested in grado modding because it seems like a cheaper way to upgrade my grados without buying a new pair, but is that really true?
I saw the alternative of swapping my sr80e drivers with hemps, and maybe wooden cups, but wonder if getting a used hemp is a better option.
Also saw that you can kinda build an EDL brand “bootleg” gs3000e for like a fifth of its retail cost, should sound (almost) identical, seems crazy to me.
@Hazi59 used to do quite a bit of Grado mods/builds, so I’m sure could point you the right direction
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Some links to parts I’ve used to build grado style custom headphones:
https://www.ellevenacoustica.com/products
The epsilon G1 drivers are what you want.
https://turbulentlabs.com/category/leather-headbands/
The turbulent audio headbands are really good. The also make drivers, but I think the elleven acoustica drivers are better.
Shipibo Audio makes the best headbands. They also sell the headband spring steel band you will need. The also are the only ones that I know of that currently make rodblocks and gimbals…so at the minimum those are a must. They make good wood cups as well, though I prefer Bruce at Wabi Sabi (etsy store fleasbaby)…
The pads are your choice. The beautiful audio ones work. You can also use any grado pads as well.
As far as the cable, it depends on if you want to do detachable cable or not. Ive done both, but attached cable is easier. I used a Turbulent Labs cable.
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Thanks, great links, bookmarked.
How do they sound compared to official grados?
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The thing is if you add up the cost of the components Hazi recommended it’s gonna cost more than sth like the Hemp lol.
I also use Turbulent headband, Shipibo gimbals and cushion, and Impact Audio cable, and Beautiful Audio detachable cable mod. Haven’t got drivers yet.
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They are definitely similarish, but less pronounced upper mids. It still is forward sounding, but much less aggressive. There is better depth as well, granted you get a GS style sized wooden cup from Wabi Sabi. I definitely recommend Black Limba, Maple, Walnut or Mahogany as those seem to be the best tone woods for Grado style drivers and cup size. Bruce at Wabi Sabi does custom woods as well, you just have to email him. I actually had him make an SR325 aluminum outer shell with a mahogany inner shell and inlay. It cost me some money, but it was worth it both aesthetically and sonically.
Here are some pictures of my past Grado Style Headphones I built using Symphones Magnum V8 drivers and Nhoord Red V2 drivers.
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And I would argue that those would sound better than the hemp. But, you don’t have to use every part I listed if you are on a budget. I made a pair once using just sr60e drivers and grado L cushions. The upgraded gimbals & rodblocks, Cable, Wood Cups and Headband still improved on the comfort and sound of the stock sr60e.
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