Build Log: DIY Whammy HPA

Intro

This is my build log for construction of the Whammy headphone amp, an open source, diy amplifier. For those who need it, here is the origin of the amp.

While one could go about it several ways the easiest source for a PCB is the diyAudio Store. There are even more ways you could go about building, modifying or otherwise mounting or casing the amp. I chose to go with the diyAudio Store chassis. I like how it looks and it takes out a significant amount of work that I don’t really have the tools,space or skills for.

The bill of materials is a little less well documented but the most comprehensive I found was here and while this thread on diyaudio.com does include a build guide it is not the one I am following. Instead I will be following this more up to date guide:

Step 1: Components

The first stage was gathering the components. Due to the current global shortages of electronics components some of these proved challenging. In particular mosfets and octocouplers are getting very scarce. For the vast majority of components I used Mouser, for the mosfets and transformer I used Digikey and the octocoupler I found on a tiny Dutch raspberry pi project webshop. The rectifier diodes I found on Audiophonics.

For the vast majority of parts I stuck to the recommended items. The only changes I made were to choose only Nichicon capacitors. All the resistors are Vishay. I’ve also chosen to go with an opamp socket to allow me to swap that out as I prefer. Finally i went with a different power coupler. The standards and requirements in the EU mean that different products apply and I had to take this in to account. In the end I went with the same brand but with medical grade power filtering built in and a removable cartridge mounted fuse.

Having gathered all my parts, which were conveniently all delivered in baggies with labels, I added the part numbers from the BOM to each bag so that populating the board would be as straight forward as possible. This also allowed me to check I had all parts and to visually inspect them for defects.

Step 2
PCB Part 1

Following the guide, the first step is to populate the power supply section.


Components inserted prior to soldering. On the labels in blue pen is visible the component numbers I added from the circuit diagram

Next these components are soldered to the board. Once done I can then test this for faults before continuing the build.


Testing the negative rail

At this point I decided to mock up the power coupling position as it was bothering me. I realised that the way the base panel of this chassis was aligned meant that the coupler and the transformer on the pcb would collide. I turned the base panel upside down so the stand off positions were better. Given that the panels have counter sinks for screw heads there is a clear side preference so this was pretty odd. Easily solved however. Now the board will fit into the chassis.

Next time I post I will be covering populating the rest of the components and mounting/wiring in the chassis.

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Step 3
PCB Part 2

The next task was to finish populating the pcb. Best practice is to start with the smallest components and work up and so to this end I next added all the resistors and soldered them. My rigorous labelling was key here as there are quite a few different resistors and the all look superficially the same. Care is needed to avoid placing the wrong one in the wrong place.


Resistors installed

Once these were all fitted I moved on to the capacitors. I had two sizes remaining, six of each. The front two larger capacitors I mounted high and leaning over. This will allow me much better access to and much more clearance for the op amp socket.


Capacitors installed

Next I fitted the four mosfets and their heatsinks along the side of the board. The six heatsinks have been the hardest to solder into place. Being heatsinks they are not very in to being heated in order to solder and this was tricky. I managed to get enough on to fix them in place and since I won’t be shaking this around anytime soon I think it is fine. Lastly I fitted the opamp socket, the octocouplers and their associated capacitors.

With all components now soldered it was time to turn my attention back to the chassis. I soft mounted the pcb, tested the pot and headphone jack for location and decided to change from 20mm to 16mm standoffs to give myself more room between pcb and pot. This will be wire rather than pcb mounted due to positioning. In fact this would allow you to use a much greater variety of potentiometers for volume control. I have an ALPS 100k. Next I measured and mocked up my wiring.


Finished pcb with wiring laid out

At this point I made two decisions. One was that rather than soldering the audio cables directly to the pcb I would use sockets. I have a few around and I decided to use 2 pin sockets with one pin stripped out. This will make installation much much easier, look neater and give me more possibility for future modifications.

The second decision is one that will cause me a delay of one or two weeks. I was looking at the way the power coupling connects to the PCB and I decided it could be a lot safer than bare wire solder connections. I’d rather this part of the amp be over designed for additional safety. To that end I have ordered PCB mounted tension sockets plus spade connectors and arubber shock cover for the power coupling. While I was doing so I ordered high specification wire and an earth ring to improve the ground connection to the chassis.

Next time I will hopefully be installing the final parts and getting to find out if I have successfully built the amp!

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Step 4
Assembly

Final parts having arrived I proceeded to assemble the power coupling…

The board connections…

And to place everything in the chassis…

And… well a mixed bag. The power stage works. My test leds light up. No sound comes out at all. There is no background noise… nothing! I’ve tested the connections as far as I can follow the circuit diagram and somewhere between the pot and the mosfets something is not right.

I am going to trouble shoot some more and see what I can learn. If I don’t find a solution the in a month I will order a new pcb, strip and test components and try again.

So a damb squib! It has been deeply satisfying so far. It would have been even more so had it actually worked but I have learnt a great deal and I don’t feel it was wasted effort. I will keep you posted!

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Thank you for taking the time to take the pictures and write a the description! Fun to watch!

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Definitely enjoyed looking over your progress in the details images you shared. I think plugging the signal cables directly to the PCB would have been more pure sonically but I know you have your reasons not to.

I’ll be rooting for you on the sidelines to get it up and running!

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I actually did this as part of my trouble shooting and I think I will do so again in any following attempt. The plugs were not a good solution for the audio cables!

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My first step with trouble shooting is to check everything manually, check all the diodes are the right way around, all the electrolytic caps, check the resistor values (with is a pain with those vishay dale resistor markings).
FWIW I second guessed some of the board markings for Diode direction, but when I traced the tracks they were all correct,
Check all the solder joints look good with magnification.

I usually find the issue if I do that, having said that it took me 3 hours with an oscilloscope to find my one error (missing solder joint) on the Elekit 8150, and I will swear I must have looked at that joint 3 times before I resorted to the scope.

If you don’t have a scope what you can do is feed the input a 50Hz Sine Wave, and use the AC voltage on a multimeter to see how far the signal makes it. I usually mark up the circuit diagram with test points, and trace back from the output. If the noise your hearing on the output is 50Hz hum, it makes it a lot harder.

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Excellent advice Polygonhell. Thanks. I’ll give that sine wave test a go tomorrow. I am pretty certain that the issue will be with my soldering as pcb soldering is something I am very much still learning. I went into this thinking that stripping and soldering into a new board was a likely outcome before I got a working amp so I am pretty chill about this outcome. It’s good to learn a way to test it though! Thank you.

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Visual inspection is your best bet then, I’m old , and my ability to see close up things isn’t what it once was so I use a loupe, and just go one connection at a time, most bad solder joints are obvious.
Generally you will have missed something, or you’ve put too much solder on and bridged a track.
Both are easy fixes. I very much doubt you will have to rebuild it on another board.

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Thanks for that. I share your struggles with the aging eyesight, it has been the only part of my 40s that I really have not enjoyed :thinking: :laughing:

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I feel your pain! That has driven me nuts. My whole life perfect vision, then I hit 40 and BAM! I’m holding things at arm’s length to read them…doing the “grandpa reading a pill bottle” thing. Aargh!!

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Since this is interesting in it’s own right, I use something like this

But I’ve been looking for something better, ideally better optical quality, and ideally more comfortable.
So if anything has something different they like I’d be interested if they can share.

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her’s a cheap little tool I use (we all make mistakes) and as @Polygonhell mentioned, getting solder across the wrong traces sucks, this is a great clean up tool. I’ve never been able to use solder wick without making even more of a mess.

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It has a learning curve to it, yep.

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There is progress…

Firstly a very silly mistake. After testing ALL THE THINGS I finally realised that the headphone socket was wired in backwards…

So I now have sound! And a horrible ground loop hum! But this is progress so I am happy.

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Heh. Welcome to the “wired the outside connector in backwards”-club. Turn around your chair before taking a seat.

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Ensure that the body of the pot makes good contact with the chassis. You can add a star washer between them to get a little bite into the material. And make sure that all parts of the chassis have continuity to the ground bolt.

This is the new DIY store chassis correct? It’s metal correct?

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That’s a good tip.

Issue is chassis ground not making good contact. I can’t find my spare star washers so I have ordered new ones. I wanted to at least find out if it worked rather than wait for them to get here first! Should be Wednesday. With luck the parts to make a small power light pcb will arrive by then too.

Yes it is that case and yes it is metal. There is an extra hole in the base plate that is perfect for chassis ground.

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I would sand the paint/anodizing off the areas of the chassis pieces where they touch to ensure continuity. And make sure to get the inside of the front plate where it meets the pot. And the area around the ground bolt.

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I can’t tell from your pics - where are you currently grounded? And is there a cap between your RCA grounds and the ground bolt?