What would I tell Holo though? Also, I don’t think Holo will respond for quite some time. I hit them up with a question a few weeks back and nothing so far. I even followed up asking the same question. I believe I’m not the only one experiencing such a backlog. But I’ll give it a shot.
Edit: oh you probably meant auralic and lampizator?
That might be a last resort kind of thing since I don’t have an aes cable. I suppose I could get a cheap one to see if that helps.
Oh, didn’t know that. I can definitely try that with a mogami I have lying around. Learned something new today.
yes, if the G1 is working through USB out and the Lampizator is working through USB in, and the cable is known to be good, it’s clearly some sort of compatibility issue between them, one or both of the manufacturers will likely have heard of it, so you start there.
That’s probably included for a reason lol, I wouldn’t be surprised if some obscure non compliant cable caused an issue at some point, so might as well make people use a normal one just in case
Little update: Looks like the usb port on the g1 is somehow broken. I tried using the usb port meant for the external drive with the lampi and it worked just fine throughout the night. Sending it back for repair would cost $350-400. I’m still waiting on a reply if I can swap it out myself. Although I still haven’t tried the AES output, I’m wondering if I should go for buying an AES cable instead or go for the repair. Iirc, the amber digital inputs are all reasonably of the same quality. Any suggestions/advice?
Ditch the USB, I found I liked BNC into my Lampi mo’ better. That said your Holo is going to work great on USB.
Depending on how brave you are, I’m willing to bet dollars to donuts you simply have a cold solder on the USB out and a simple tap with a soldering iron would reflow it. But I say that as someone with a lot of electronic repair bench time in my rear view mirror.
TBH, take the shortcut now, use an AES cable and see how much you enjoy it and then make a long term decision. It sucks getting a new piece of kit and then having to go through everything you’ve had to go through. This is the seedy underbelly of our hobby. Why can’t we just leave well enough alone? LOL
The highest quality cable I tried it with was a Cardas Clear.
I think the level of quality required for other digital cables doesn’t need to equal the Callisto. USB is presumed to start out with a strike against it and a lot of the magic in boutique USB is to overcome that deficit in the first place. AES and USB use two entirely different timing systems. With AES, the G1 will control the timing, with USB, the DAC will control the timing.
I don’t think there’s going to be a right or wrong here, just what is right for you and what you’re going to be comfortable with long term. So take all of the suggestions as just that, suggestions, not gospel. lol
I did ask for a partial refund but I’m still waiting for a reply. He did claim that it has been working when he used the usb port. I believe him since it worked for me for like 1-2 days without issue. But I’ll just have to wait for his reply. Hopefully, the reply is favorable. And, yes, it was FF. His feedback was good so I didn’t see a major problem going that route, understanding the risks.
