I think it was being caused by using a long-ish (5 foot) USB cable between the output device and the SU6. After I switched to my short 1 foot Pine Tree Audio USB cable between the output isolator and the SU6, the popping stopped. I tried switching cable lengths on the input device as well but this didn’t seem to change anything. I also tried using a cheap 1 meter cable between the output isolator and the SU6 since that is a more standard USB cable length, and there was still no popping. So I guess if you are interested in using this solution (specifically with the isolators between a PC/Source and DDC), be sure your USB cable on the output side is around a meter or less lol (input side can be longer I guess).
Since I was planning on using my 5 Foot PTA USB cable between the output isolator and my Amber 3, I bought a 3 foot PTA USB cable just in case. I will say that I had no popping issue with the 5 foot PTA USB between the ultraRendu and Amber 3, so it’s entirely possible that the 5 foot USB cable will work fine going from the output isolator directly into my DAC. But I’ll test both the 5 and 3 foot cables in that scenario anyways and post my poppy findings here. I’ll also start doing some dedicated listening rather than troubleshoot listening once the “how to avoid the popping” saga is over and give my impressions of having this isolator in/out of my main chain.
Thank you for all the insights and suggestions everyone!
@driftingbunnies , DbCooper was kind enough to sell me some stuff which got me to convert a long (20ft) ethernet run i had to fiber and then back into a much shorter ethernet run into a streamer. To my ears, best i could tell with direct comparisons and taking the time to A/B a few various pieces i am a believer and a fan. Clean up of the very front end and the source, feels/sounds to me as allowing the equipment beyond the opportunity to maximize its potential in this silly digital/streaming day and age.
I have to fight my layman’s understanding of 010110’s and all that goes with this technology. My gut and minuscule knowledge of the subject suggests that the difference should be non-existent, my own personal listening experiences of my gear tell me otherwise in the more abstract character traits of space, dimension, and the “deeper & darker background” . YMMV but i found the effort and investment worthwhile
Did you also test setting your LPS to 5v? I asked the seller what the receiver needed (the one that converts optical to USB and goes to the DAC) and he said 5v. I’m curious if I need to get a new LPS for that or if I can use my 5v one for it.
So the output isolator (the one that goes from fiber back to USB and then to your DAC or DDC) says above the DC barrel input that it can take between 7.5-10V, so I power it with 7.5V. The person on head-fi that inspired me to give this solution a try powers his with 9V. I also reached out to the seller and he said this, “Now the working voltage is 7.5-10v, and the product has been upgraded”. So I assume the 5V number is for an older version of the isolators. (also worth mentioning, the seller recommends 9V but it should work fine with anywhere between 7.5-10V)
I did test it briefly with 5V because the description says to use 5V, and with my “fixed” setup (1M or less USB from the output isolator to my SU6 DDC) it seemed to still work when given 5V (no pops). But I didn’t want to test my luck too much so I didn’t do an extended test with 5V.
The input isolator (the one that goes from host USB to fiber) on the other hand can take 5V of USB-C power, but is only really there if your host device (PC, Rendu, etc.) doesn’t provide enough power via USB to power the input isolator.
You have to power the output isolator (DC barrel input @ 7.5-10V) for both to work, but you don’t necessarily have to power the input isolator with 5V USB-C power for both to work. And just powering the input isolator with 5V via USB-C won’t work.
I also haven’t tested to see if powering the 5V USB-C input brings any sonic benefits, but I’ll plan on doing that once these isolators are integrated into my main system.
Dang, not looking forward to also having to buy a LPS. Looking around, upgrading the SFP modules and getting another USB could be $500+ all in. Will have to rethink whether or not it’ll be worth it.
Yeahhh, the combo I’m using right now with the isolators, SGC LPS, 1M Finisar AOC, and two Pine Tree Audio USB cables is about $585 without taking shipping or tax into account ($465 without the usb cables), so it is a bit of an investment but still half the price of the AfterDark.
Maybe I’ll get the OCXO Optimized AfterDark sometime in the future and do a little verses battle, but for now I’m excited to see the differences these two little boxes make to my main system.
Might anyone have an opinion on the Aurender N200 vs Lumin u2 vs Auralic G2.2 vs Innuos Pulsar?
Any help would be much appreciated. I have the Matrix S and The Lumin U2 in house. Lumin is amazing but software unusable but at least I now know the sound.
Can’t offer any opinions on one unit versus the other simply because I lack the experience with 2 out of the 3 units BUT I did post all sorts of opinions on the Innuos Sense software and the Pulse unit over in the Innuos thread which maybe if you find out more about the other 2 units might eventually help you piece together the knowledge or opinions you seek🤗
Good luck.
What SW are you going to be using? You’re splitting hairs with price and features and I think it will boil down to whether or not you want a screen or whether you’re going to be using Roon. Time an again the feedback from people that use the Innuous ecosystem is their SW is polished, useful and sonically optimized.
Most important is sound quality between these 2 units. From what I gather the SW is good to go on both the Innuos and Aurender.
Sound-wise, I would like it all—wonderfully musical and with expansive sound stage, accurate timber, etc. though definitely would lean towards musical, not wanting an etched sound.
No first hand experience with either unfortunately, I’ve listened to a Mk 3 and enjoyed that and would tick your sonic descriptors but I’ve never heard a Pulsar.
I had a dCS Network Bridge that I enjoyed a lot but had to move on from it due to an incompatibility with my then DAC.
They do have signatures so you’re doing the right thing in looking for some first hand feedback. That said, you should be able to lean them a fair bit in one direction direction or another with cable pairings. But you don’t want to be fighting them or having to use a cable to compensate for a shortcoming.
If you’re using Roon then the SW functionality discussion becomes a non issue and that’s good.
I am a fanboy of Innuos and their software. I do love my ROON and continue to keep my subscription.
Innuos does NOT do ROON core well. They are not ROON certified. If you het the innuos and ROON is your primry you will need to set up a core on something else and simply use the Pulsar as an endpoint, it will work very well that way.
If you plan on using the asense software to stream then yes, innuos is again good to go.
In my main 2 channel i usually use the sense software in order to squeeze every bit of quality out of my system. Elsewhere in the house every other system plays ROON, it simply allows me to find more music easier and still sounds damned great. Good luck with wichever you choose.
My understanding at this point is that the Pulsar is a bit more relaxed/musical than the N200.
Any thoughts on this possible distinction? Would anyone consider the Pulsar a bit too laid back? Or the N200 a bit too analytical/etched?
Does the reclocker in the Pulsar mean a lot with regards to deciding between the 2 products?
Finally, I believe the Pulsar works with HQPlayer, something I value with my Apple laptop connected via usb to my Holo May dac. Anyone with experience using Pulsar with HQPlayer?
I have the N10. Im happy with the unit and only use the hard drives to play music. Unfortunately, no streaming experience. My experience is that it neutral. I would not consider it anytical.
Appreciate your input. It may ultimately come down to buying both units and comparing them for myself. I would rather prefer to make an educated guess and buy just the one.
Good luck with wichever you choose.