so far so good… I haven’t had as much time to roll it in with most of my gear but I’ve used primarily with my desktop setup. Sounds really nice with the burson soloist amp and auris HA2SE I use there… I briefly through into my primary rig and it sounds great with the CMA800R golden and quicksilver…
My ultimate test will be when I can rip out my 2 channel rig and get it setup there which I would like to try. It’s clearly multiple steps above the BF2 and even better than the Spring KTE.
I got a used exogal comet plus, and since it was a transition from soekris 2541, I feel the difference in tier.
The sound is great, but I am facing the problem that the DC connector on the comet main unit is very easy to disconnect, and it will disconnect with just the slightest touch.
There are people on this forum who are still using comet, so I thought it would be the best place to ask questions.
The used seller never explained that there was a problem with the terminals, so I would like to see what other comet owners have to say.
I don’t own a comet. But do you have the original power supply or is it aftermarket?
2.5mm power connectors come in a variety of sizes, only differing in the internal sleave dimensions, and if you have the wrong one, they can sort of work, but be excessively touchy.
Connections like that should be reliable, unless you deliberately wiggle them.
If it’s the OG adapter or you know it’s the right size, you’ll need to identify if the issue is in the socket or the plug side, sometimes sockets like that can break free from the board, which is probably the worst case scenario, it’s an easy fix if you’re competent with a soldering iron and it’s not ridiculously hard to disassemble. The lead can also break at the plug.
It can be hard to tell which is the issue basically you have to try and hold one side and move the other and see if you can reproduce the issue.
Thank you for your answer.
The one I have is the Plus that comes with the official Upgraded Power Supply. The problem is with the “plus” PSU’s DC connector.
An original AC adapter that is not an upgrade is also included, and this terminal will not come out just by touching it.
Therefore, the problem seems to be on the cable side, not the DAC side.
I think the cable on the “plus” PSU may have been replaced by the previous owner.
Start out with figuring out which type of DC barrel you’ve got. What’s the voltage/amperage of the power supply? There’s a good chance you may be able to get a power supply that’s better than the stock.
If it’s DC, and std. you’re looking at 2.5 or 2.1 mm barrel aperture with a 5.5 plug. If indeed it’s a cable then you have the easiest fix.
EDIT: okay I see what they look like. Yeah, replacing the cable should be pretty straight forward.
Yes what I got is your set of images.
The output of the “Plus” PSU seems to be 25W at 15V/1.7A.
The OG AC Adapter that plugs in without any problems is “GS25A15-P1J”, and when I looked into it, I found out that the connector inner diameter is 2.1mm x outer diameter 5.5mm x length 11mm.
I couldn’t identify the cable for the “Plus” PSU even though I looked into it, but it looks like the plug is short, only about 8mm.
It is highly likely that the “Plus” PSU cable has been replaced.
I think replacing the cable will solve the problem. However, I have never tried upgrading the power cable, so I don’t know what the best options are. It would be helpful if you could tell me the recommended cables or good threads to study.
You should not even have to replace the cable just the connector. Any competent electronics shop that does even minor electronics repair should be able to put an appropriate sized connector on the cable.
Thanks, everyone’s advice solved my cable problem! I didn’t expect that being able to use a “Plus” PSU would be this big.
While I couldn’t use the “Plus” PSU, I had no choice but to use the ACAdapter, but during that time I was so dissatisfied with the high range, especially the metallic sound, that I often wanted to go back to the 2541.
Still, I didn’t go back to the 2541 because the improvements in separation and localization were significant (and that’s what I wanted), but I still missed it.
However, the moment I was able to try it out in earnest with the “Plus” PSU, the slight complaints (the discomfort of the high-frequency metallic sound, the breakdown of macro dynamics when the sound was crowded) were resolved.
I can now say that the comet’s sound is closer to my taste than the 2541 in almost every aspect(As for the stage, I think the 2541 is slightly wider, which is just right for me. However, the comet has depth, which is what I was looking for!).
My notes about my impressions using Comet are now blank again lol.
I would like to summarize my impressions again after using the “Plus” PSU for a while.
(I didn’t share my chain here yet: PC>Singxer SU-2>Comet Plus or Soekris 2541>Violectric v280>HD800s)
I knew, and never doubted, that differences in power supplies greatly affect audio. However, after experiencing this, I was reminded once again that there is a huge difference, and I learned it firsthand.
From here, I became acutely aware of the fact that as we move toward higher tiers, the impact of slight differences in cables, power supplies, and even differences in installation environments only increases.
Although I was troubled and consumed a little time, it was a good learning experience.
Looks like I’m about to join the Comet Plus club. I’m really excited to read that depth is something it does well as I am fairly attuned to sound stage depth, or lack there of.
For those who haven’t seen it, Exogal technology explained: https://www.youtube.com/live/sa1MlVmvz94?si=9HEJDsKdFC8pFZ4F
I’m a beginner unlike the knowledgeable people here. Also, it’s only been about a week since I received the exogal comet, and it’s only been a few hours since I was able to use the Plus PSU.
I just wanted to express my joy and gratitude that the cable problem was resolved, so I quickly wrote down my thoughts.
There are only a few DACs that I can compare with, and the DAC with the highest new price is the exogal comet, so I can’t write an opinion with a proper comparison.
However, I feel that it is the DAC with the most depth among the few comparison targets. But it’s possible that I’m just dazzled by the shock of first impressions (which means I’m still too early to draw any conclusions).
So please take that into account when reading my impressions.
Please also check the knowledgeable opinions of others.
@dB_Cooper , My words and comments mean nothing, there are many reasons why the combination pictured below should not sound particularly special. It should not have the level of detail, separation, incredible imaging, depth (really nice depth, front to back) and soundstage it does. There are monitors in the way, we are on a desk, the seating position is not particularly good etc.
It already sounded decent, I had ZERO complaints, especially since this is my office desk. I honestly don’t feel comfortable saying much about the Ideon, it doesn’t make sense…The level of “Holographic clarity and spacial presentation” along w/ technicalities off a PI2 mated to monoprice speakers should not be possible with the mish-mosh of equipment you see in the picture.
This set-up is really easy to A/B, just for shits and grins I will spend some time this evening when the house is REALLY QUIET and see what I get out of it. I honestly believe at this point I cannot distinquish between cost bias and reality.
The problem is it is impossible to let go of the piece when your ears and brain tell you there really is a distinguishable difference. I think I am simply an Audio-FOOL with more money than sense. 
This is just for @dB_Cooper
You really will have to try it yourself, no matter what I THINK i hear I simply feel it is $$$$ bias
That is the f’ing coolest thing ever! I figured, it’s supposed to make a good digital signal better, it’s doing exactly what it should be doing.
Probably the first time someone has ever tried something as moronic as this and I’m thrilled beyond words that it’s as good as you say!
Absolutely bat shit crazy stuff but that’s the digital game.
Now, next, do yourself a favor and get rid of that damned Furhman and buy like a cheap gen 2 Shunyata Hydra for crying out loud. You’ll trip over them on USAM for under $1K.
What’s funny is that the Ideon costs more than everything you’ve got on that desk, combined! Including the desk itself!
Hold on there buddy, that there bobble head is a genuine RARE piece of FALL OUT Vault-Tec memorabilia which I am about to trade my dealer for this here silly audio piece, he could possibly put all 3 of his daughters through medical-universities on the profits off this RARE bobble head many years from now…
Local FLAC/WAV > SU-1 > Exogal Comet Plus / MDHT Atlantis (WE 357) > WA22 (GEC U52, Valvo 6SL7GT, Tungsol 5998) > HEkse - all using half decent cables.
Just listening to Get Lucky, Daft Punk, man, this DAC makes the claps sound so real. It’s the room reverb, the space around them. The vocals sound more real than I’ve ever heard them too. And the bass guitar is just so perfect. This chain is great. I’m so pleased I gambled on this DAC.
Now Rage, Take The Power Back, again, wow. That kick drum, the space it fills! The tactility of the bass. It’s so well defined. Then the tactility of the guitars… It’s great.
I have loved my Schiit Gungnir MB for years, but I don’t think it was a good choice for my WA22. It was at it’s best with the Kinki THR-1. The Comet Plus is a real game changer… I’m still wanting a solid state to pair with this Exogal. I’m thinking a V222, or a 281 if I can find one.
With my inexpensive Pi hat streamer the below applies when used with the Ideon Absolute Time re-clocking device:
There is an “ethereal” quality that is somehow coming out that just isn’t there otherwise. It’s delicate but it adds a type of impact that simply does not exist otherwise. It is happening from album to album and track to track it’s not isolated to only some recordings. I have gone through my usual test tracks and I am more and more sure I’m not imagining this. I have gone back and forth a few times now swapping the Ideon in and out.
It’s delicate, the effect surrounds each instrument, it takes individual pieces and makes them each just “pop” but in a subtle and really pleasing manner. It IS imparting an effect on the stream, I’m very sure and it’s enough to miss it when not there but almost as if you are not sure what you are missing.
If you allow a few tracks to play w/ out the re-clocker in line it almost makes you feel sad, like you miss the taste of something really yummy as it dissipates from your mouth and mind after a few moments. You know it was just there, you were enjoying it and now it’s all done & gone. 
I can see a good re-clocker being a worthwhile investment for a Pi hat style streamer.
Successful experiment and wonderful experience 
I assume the Exogal Comet & Ion stack being of an all digital nature and build gained maximum performance enhancement, the Comet + DAC along with its matching ION amplifier simply performed exceptionally.
I do think I would like to eventually upgrade my Pi streamer to the maximum extent possible within monetary reason, the Exogal Comet + DAC really took well to the very clean input. 
Lastly, I used SPDIF all around. I do NOT have USB on MY semi-custom @dB_Cooper made Pi thingy
FWIW I don’t think you’re imagining it, I had a similar experience when I went from the pi2AES to the NS1, it was a surprisingly large improvement.
I know the ideon is a D2D converter, but it’s going to have a similar effect or better.
The only question about devices like this for me is the when to splurge on them.
@Polygonhell does anyone besides Ideon make a D2D as you called it, that will enhance the clarity and quality of a SPDIF or AES output for my Pi?
Obviously the combination of Ideon and Pi streamer is ridiculous (although it sounded incredible 
). I would like to enhance my Pi, I like it. I just don’t know who makes a more affordable piece like the Ideon Absolute Time???
@Go-Kart personally I have had the most trouble w/ using USB / my Comet especially off any computers used to stream because my unit picks up all the noise from the PC or laptop and I can hear it as clicks and pops. I’ve been using AES and BNC w/ no problems for a few years now.
I’m looking at updating the firmware; is there no other way to do it outside of this bizarre FTDI cable process? I’m only on v1.2 something, and the latest is v2.2, so I feel it’ll be worth the effort.
